Almost There

Well almost almost.

I think i have pretty much worked out the route I will take in Lapland and the gear.

Firstly the route Hendrik suggested the Nordkalottleden Trail well it was one of those "yep it feels right" suggestions so very quickly organising myself to walk from Kilpisjärvi to Abisko in a bit less than 2 weeks, interestingly this section of the trail starts in Finland, but passes through both Sweden and Norway, having also crossed through the point where the three countries meet. As I am going at the beginning of July I am already planning for mosquitos along with not much darkness and probably damp weather as well. So this leads me to the gear.

The gear list is not finalised completely but definites are

McHale pack
Hilleberg Soulo tent, heavy but I will not need to worry about strong wind, rain etc.
Paramo Third Element, its flexibility will be ideal in Lapland
Tilley Hat, ideal for rain and sun


I have spent a lit of time trying to decide which stove to take, I have many choices and essentially they revolve around the use of wood, alcohol, Esbit of gas. The other complication is I have to fly to and from Tromsø so most fuels cannot be carried on a plane. I have decided to take my TiTri Caldera for my Evernew 900 pot. I am intending to use this with alcohol (Rød Sprit in Norway) along with the possibility of using wood.

Pacer Poles Camera Mount

I have been a long term user of Pacer Poles, I have the original Aluminium poles. When ever out hiking I like to take camera which is either a Dslr, Ricoh GX 100 or Pentax W60. Most times I will just hold the camera in my hand when taking a photo but there are times when a steadier hand is required. I do carry the Ultrapod mini but when walking there are times when a quick photo with a monopod, makes sense. Thus when I heard about the Camera Mount for Pacer Poles I quickly ordered one. The mount weighs 18 grams and is easily installed and removed from the pole, and more importantly, it works. On a recent trip in Sweden where the wind was gusting across the fields I was able to take pictures without worrying about the wind causing the camera to move. I strongly recommend these mounts if you are using Pacer Poles as they work as stated and in my view the benefits are well worth the weight.

Kust to Kustleden: Ängleholm to Båstad crossing Bjärehalvöns Peninsula

An uneventful train trip led to to the start of the walk and one end of the Kyst til Kystleden at Ängleholm. Adjacent to the railway station is the Swedish railway museum, however, my interest was in setting off on a warm Sunday morning towards the coast.
The trail quickly took me into Kronoskogen, the forest has many trails criss crossing it and I encountered many joggers, dog walkers and couples happily enjoying the sunny weather. I guess I looked a bit unusual wearing my Tilley Hat and carrying a rucksack. The early part of this trip was certainly one of meeting many Sunday picnickers, cyclers, dog walkers, families and couples in this beautiful area. I continued on through the forest ultimately encountering a large caravan park at Råbocka requiring me to circumnavigate the park before meeting the bitumen which was to be one of my constant companions for the trip. Leaving the surrounds of the caravan park the trail entered a nice summer house area before finally meeting the beach adjacent to Klitterhus
Here the trail followed a cycle path through the sand dunes with no views of the water until crossing a large footbridge across the Rönne å before passing a large boat sales company as well as a restaurant where there were many persons happily ensconced at the tables eating and drinking, a tempting lunch place, but …..Onwards through the boat yards of Småbåtshamn to meet up with the railway line as it heads east and north to Göteborg. For now the path followed the coastline with views out to Skälderviken, along this section of path you also pass the remains of several gun emplacements a remnant of days gone by. The continues through several small fishing villages including the picturesque Skepparkroken.
Vejbystand to Hålehall
Finally after a short lunch break near Vejbystrand, I turned inland as the temperatures rose into the low 20’s and with the sunny reflecting off the bitumen it made for a warm afternoons walk, all the while longing for the coolness of the forest on Hallandsås. The next 8 km took me along quiet country roads to the foothills of Hallandsås. There was very little traffic on the roads (apart from crossing Route 105) which was a pleasure and the views across the farmland towards the hills kept my mind focussed on the destination (not always a good thing). As I closed in on the hills I began to pass small forest allotments consisting of Birch and it was in one of these that I took a breather and wondered why in the midst of farm land was there this small allotment, I guess there is reason but I doubt if I will ever know. Soon afterwards I left the bitumen to enter a woodland (Flickebäck) which at times is grazed by cattle, I was surprised to find that the trail had been coated with woodchips to cover the mud. My feet were eternally grateful for this soft surface after many miles of bitumen. Passing through the reserve the trail then crossed Grievievägen. The hills were now very close but I also begun to realise that in order to find the cooler breeze and shade I would have to do a bit of climbing. Passing a large farm butik the trail then turns towards the hills and begins the climb to the ridge and Hålehall, home for the night. Once on the top of the ridge the shade of the large birch tress coupled with the mountain breezes made for a relaxing camp site.
Soon I was eating dinner and admiring the view from Hålehall towards Förslöv and Skälderviken. I was soon ready for bed and quickly fell asleep to sounds of automatic rifle fire. Yes I knew there was a military area nearby, but why did they choose a pleasant Sunday evening and night to conduct manoeuvres?

After awakening to the sounds of another ambush in the forest then listening to many colourful tales from one of the locals who had walked up the hill in the morning I set off towards Orlid and Bastad. Today was to be spent wandering the varying forests of Hallandsås plateau before descending to Båstad.
Leaving Hålehal the trail continued through beautiful stands of birch before entering one of the many pine forests in the area. Views were limited but the cool morning sunshine made for a pleasant walk after the warmth of the day before. As the morning progressed the trail gradually approaches the E6 motorway which was evident from the increasing hum of vehicles heading north and south. Not to be deterred I endeavoured to block these sounds out and appreciate the surrounds, the birds singing and the gentle breeze in the trees.
One of the features of the days walk was to pass a memorial where in 1757 Bengt Nilsson working for the Norwegian postal service and travelling on the Kings Road between Varberg and Helsingborg was robbed and killed. A information sign and engraved stone Postrånarstenen (the post robbers stone) are located here. The Kings Road in the 1700’s was the main thoroughfare between Copenhagen and Oslo and it was no place to be at night time, with many undesirables lurking in the forests, but on this bright and sunny morning there seemed little to fear.
Not long after passing the stone I came across a very comfortable but not ultra light seat, sadly it did not fit in my pack. In this section there is a mixture of forest and farmland as well as the border between Denmark and Sweden (1645 to 1658).
Soon I was on familiar ground having passed through here in February when there was snow on the ground and a very cold wind. However, now it was warm and the warm weather had brought out the locals including a smooth snake happily warming itself in the sun near Älemosse. This small snake seemed in no hurry to go anywhere. I did wonder though having now seen the two non venomous Swedish snakes was I likely to meet the third as I entered Älemossen? The contrast between winter in Älemossen and spring was evident with the grass now green, flowers out and generally a much more pleasant feel to it. It was also warming up again as I crossed the heath-land. Travelling over familiar ground I knew what to expect but there was always a surprise or two including the cherry tree blossom, the wonderful view down to Laholm Bay. There was also the sign indicating an old Bronze Age burial ground which I do not recall seeing in February. With the sun shining the warm descent into Båstad commenced and I was soon at the railway station. One last surprise remained, the train line passes through some wonderful stands of forest as well as many views out to sea providing a fitting conclusion to a warm and wonderful trip.

My original plan was to have started in Båstad and walk to Ängleholm, however I was glad I had changed my mind as I feel that second day with its forest walks and views was a more appropriate finish to the walk. I hope to return soon for the coastal walk around Bjärehalvön

Titanium Caldera: Wood Burning mode

On a recent trip to Sweden the Titanium Caldera Stove in wood burning mode was my primary source for cooking, along with a few 4 gram Esbit tablets. The Caldera Cone is a frustum of a circular based cone which is specifically designed to fit a certain size pot and the folks at Trail Designs provide them for most common pots in either Aluminium or Titanium (only the Titanium cones can be used for wood burning) along with the cones, Trail Designs also provides an alcohol burner as well as the Gram Cracker a Titanium stand for Esbit Tablets. The weight using the gram cracker and accompanying caddy varies, but for an Evernew 900 ml pot, the total weight of the cone, floor for wood burning mode, caddy (Ziploc) and gram cracker Esbit holder is 116 gms.

I have spoken about the gram cracker before, and in a recent post on Backpackinglight (USA) Rand Linsey of Trail Designs indicated that " we found that Esbit on the Gram Cracker is actually more efficient in the Caldera than alcohol....and lighter. You do need to use the Gram Cracker or some other similar method to slow the burn rate down."

However, back to wood burning. My main cooking method is cook in the bag type meals, I normally boil about 800 mls of water for a meal and a cup of tea. The evening temperatures were around 10 C, with water temperatures similar. To set up the Caldera it is a matter of sliding the dovetail joint together and for wood burning there is a Base Plate as well as 2 Titanium Needle Stakes used as pot supports. Lighting the fire was done with a FireLite Mini and cotton pads (which ignited a little too easily). The wood available was birch and pine and was air dried as it had not rained for several days. Once the fire was started I would put the cone on and then stoke the fire until it was time to put the pot on. At the point of placing the pot on the up draft is reduced and this can cause some reduction in the fire and possibly a lot of smoke (ideal to keep away the mosquitos but not ideal for stealth camping) Stoking the fire through the gap on the side of the cone enabled me to boil the water quickly and then make dinner. The benefits of such a system is that the fire can be kept going and provide warmth, or light or just a sense of well being. I allowed the fire to burn itself out which left a small amount of cold ashes to distribute.


I enjoyed using the Caldera in wood mode and with the added benefits of a few Esbits for warming a cup of water in the morning for my much needed coffee it will form part of my gear on many trips. However, I recognised that if the focus of the trip is wood burning then I think I would still prefer to use the Bushbuddy as I feel that it provides a better burn and less ash. However, other walkers may have a different view.

In summary, if Esbit or Alcohol is the main fuel for the trip, supplemented with wood burning then the Caldera is the way forward, but if wood burning is the focus then I will take the Bushbuddy. However, both are great items to have available.

Kust to Kustleden Osby to Åsljunga

The section from Osby to Åsjlunga was planned as a 5 day trip but could have easily been completed in less time.

Thursday April 9: Osby to Hästberga

Normally I would have taken the train from Copenhagen to Osby ( a two hour trip) but B had offered to drive so that she could take advantage of shopping in Sweden as the stores were closed for Easter (Påske) in Denmark. After a little over 2 hours I was at the Osby Railway station.
Leaving the station the Kust to Kustleden trail follows Södra Portgaten westwards out of town, before entering Gullarpmossen. With the spring sunshine the birds were singing and the forest and narrow foot trail soon made me realise why I enjoyed the outdoors so much. Having crossed Gullarpmossen the trail then met up with a small road crossing a major road before once again entering the forest on one of the many forestry trails that would be followed over the coming days. Following the trail and then a main road allowed me to settle into the walking routine for the coming days. Leaving the road, the trail then entered the forest along old timber trails before passing Kristusstenen, or "Christ Stone", a huge cleft boulder which according to the legend was the result of a lightning bolt that killed a heathen chieftain as well as splitting the rock. It is also suggested that there is an image of Jesus Christ on one of the stones. Having left the cleft stone the trail then followed roads and foot trails to Hästberga, home for the night, as well as the site of a small hydroelectric plant, the Helga å (river) and its accompanying storage.

Friday April 10: Hästebrga to Ubbalt (Vittsjö)

It was a cool frosty start to the day with some condensation and ice on the Hilleberg Soulo. After breakfast with clear blue skies I set off across the retaining wall of the dam into the forests on the opposite side of the river. It was a pleasant walk through pine and birch forest along the southern side of the lake before following footpaths and trails towards Verum. As the day progressed it got warmer and ultimately resulted in me removing my Paramo Third Element vest, (yes it felt like summer). The well thought out design of the trail enables you to walk through the forest and avoid the major roads and even as you approach Verum, the trail crossses the main Verum Visseltofta Road and follows the original road past old farmhouses as it leads to the center of Verum. Leaving Verum, you pass Verum Kirke before descending into the Vieån valley which includes the picturesque Verum shelter. After passing the shelter the trail then heads into a narrow ravine which ultimately takes you to a small lake after which there is a steep climb to the ridge top.

Leaving the ravine and the beautiful lake the trail again follows forestry trails and by now the temperature was approaching 20 C and I was happily enjoying the sunshine with mind in neutral. It was at this time that I noticed out the corner of my eye a snake! Now if I was in Australia I would probably have been more focussed on looking out for snakes, but in Sweden well… I later discovered there are 3 types of snakes in Sweden, the Adder, Smooth Snake and Grass snake, this snake was the latter. It seemed in no real hurry to leave and I was happy to watch and take photos. Eventually the snake and I decided to go our own ways. For me that was following the road whilst paying a little more attention to sounds in the grass, as for the snake well I guess you will need to read their blog.
After the excitement of the snake I ultimately reached Malmsjön and feeling a little weary I decided to take a break. It was a beautiful spot and I could have easily stayed, but decided to push on (all the time thinking “Should I stay or should I go”) to Vittsjön. After another hour or so I reached the western end of Vittsjön and found a pleasant campsite looking west over the lake with a nice little sandy beach.
Nearby there was a foot trail which I later discovered was a popular walking and jogging path so it was not until sunset that I had the area to myself.

Saturday, April 11: Ubbalt to Hårsjö

Today was a short day so with the sun once again shining brightly and the mist rising from the lake as I set off for Vittsjö a small township with a supermarket as well as a bus service and other amenities. Being Easter Saturday. the store was busy, but I managed to find an ice cream and some Pringles before escaping to the solitude of the forest once again. After leaving Vittsjö the trail passes through forests until much to my surprise I found myself on a gravel footpath with overhead lighting every 50 metres, ideal for the ultralite hiker who does not need to carry a torch. Ultimately the trail leaves this well lit footpath and follows minor roads through Pjäcket past Markasjön to the tiny hamlet of Hårsjö. It is in Hårsjö that the Nord till Sydleden, terminates having started approximately 250 km further south in Ystad. Soon after the track junction you arrive at Hårsjö shelter which is located approximately 50 metres away from the lake and sadly with no water from the pump a 1 km walk was required to get water from a running stream.

Sunday April 12: Hårsjö to Lärksholm

In contrast with yesterday today was a long day in distance terms so a reasonably early start was required. It was a little misty this morning as a I set off but within a couple of hours the fog had burned off to provide yet another sunny day. After walking along the southern side of Hårsjön the trail meets up with a forestry road which is followed to Brunnshult. After crossing the main road the trail enters a forested and mossen area. It was this section that I felt had the most “wilderness feel” further supported by the fresh Moose foot prints on the trail. Also along this section is the ancient croft “Tidemanstorp”. It was such crofts that typify this historic area. After passing thorugh Änglarp the road climbs to the remains of Augusta’s Croft, what is significant is the Well which provided the clearest water I had seen the whole trip. After a lunch break and lots of water I set off towards Värsjön then along a series of trails and forestry track before entering the historic Lärksholm estate, which was originally established in the 1600s. Whilst passing a small lake it was a pleasure to watch the ducks and geese drifting on the lake in the afternoon sunshine. Arriving at Lärksholmssjön I was greeted by a chill wind blowing directly off the water into the vindskydd, fortunately I had planned to use the tent which was much warmer. Again the area is a popular tourist area and it showed signs of being “over loved” understandably given its natural beauty. though I was surprised to find the message on one sign saying “Where the hell is Roger?” How did they know I was coming?

Monday, April 13 – Lärkshol to Åsljunga and home

Sadly the trip was drawing to a close a short walk today followed by a train trip.
The days route incorporated a walk along the northern bank of Lärksholmssjön followed by a cross country section which took me under the E4 motor way, the underpass for the walking trail had to be one of the biggest I had ever seen. Ultimately the trail led me to the south western side of Åsljungasjön before turning inland to the bus stop on the old E4. As I approached the bus stop with the council water not working, I was grateful to the staff of Åsljunga Sports Klub who allowed me to get some water, their ground looked in perfect condition and seemed like an ideal venue for a country football game.

From there it was a bus and train trip home, already planing the next trip along the Kust to Kustleden

Lapland where to go, and how to get there.

I have spent a lot of time studying maps of Lapland and considering where to go and how to get there.

How to get there: The two main options to get to Lapland from Denmark are to fly or catch the overnight train. My preferred option is to fly because of time constraints. However, whether I fly to Kiruna (the most obvious) or Narvik (and see a bit more of the country) is yet to be determined. Once in Kiruna there is a bus service to Abisko. In Narvik it is a train to Abisko.

Where to go: My plan is not to walk the Kungsleden, but instead to wander the area between Abisko and Kebnekaise fjällstation (though I may not get that far south). In some ways I see this a reconnaissance trip for a return visit. The plans is to camp out, with some day walks from a base camp as well as backpacking.

A possible starting point is Kaisepakte (if the bus will stop there) and then head south along Bessesvaggi with side trips to the surrounding peaks ultimately finishing in Abisko for the return trip to Denmark. However, there are so many options and I am interested in hearing from others who have been there and may want to suggest places to visit, or transport options. Your suggestions will be very much appreciated.

Paramo Third Element

I have been using a Paramo Velez Smock over the winter and have been impressed with its functionality and its ability to breathe and yet keep me dry. However, I have also recognised that it has its limits as the weather gets warmer. My attention was drawn to Paramo's Third Element by Andy Howell the Third Element consists of 2 parts, a vest and hood and arms which when combined makes a weather proof jacket for all conditions. Paramo gear is heavy when compared to much of the ultralight gear on the market, but it's design and its twin layers which make up the directional system sets it apart from much of the standard gear that is available.

I took the Third Element jacket on a recent trip in Sweden, a report on the trip will follow.

There was no rain any day during the trip and daytime temperatures ranged between 10 and 18 C not ideal conditions to test such a jacket, especially as it is recognised that if you are carrying a Paramo jacket then it is too heavy. The total weight of my XL jacket was 840 gms with the arms and hood weighing 360 gm and the vest 480 gms on my digital scales.

In use the jackets performance surprised me, whilst I did carry the arms an hood part, I wore the vest for 90% of the time. The design of Paramo garments with their twin layer system enables it to be more breathable than traditional wind shirts. However, my biggest surprise came when after a warm mornings walking I decided to remove the vest and just walk in my silkbody top. To my surprise after a stop in the afternoon I put on my pack to immediatly experience the cold wet back feeling which I had not experienced when wearing the vest, which is a testament to the efficiency of the Paramo directional system.

Along with the efficiency of the directional system that wicks moisture away from the body, the venting provided by the Third Element with its full front zip enhances it's performance for milder climates when compared with my Velez.

This jacket will be too warm for summers in Southern Sweden and Denmark but it will be an integral part of my cooler weather kit.