Along the Nord to Sydleden: Hörlinge gård til Vittsjö

The Nord Sydleden starts on the Kust to Kustleden at the top of Skånelån and continues south to the coast at Malmö, Ystad and Trelleborg. I chose to walk a short section from just north of Hässleholm to Vittsjö on the Kust to Kustleden, which gave me access to public transport. It was a grey and misty morning as I alighted from the bus at Hörlinge gård and with the rain beginning to fall I soon had my Montane Featherlite pants on and was glad to be wearing my Paramo Third Element jacket, though I soon found that the Ibex Merino Hoody was a little warm and swapped to a silkbody top which worked nicely with the jacket. Following a forestry road for about 2 kilomteres the trail then turned north through the forest and farm land, before crossing the main road and entering the Vedema strövområde (walking area) which is criss crossed by trails, streams as well as delightful lakes.




The rain had stopped by the time I reached Barsjön and with only the hint of a breeze it was a pleasant resting point.



Beyond the lake the trail continued through the forests before arriving at the immaculate camping and shelter area of Hågnarp with two shelters, camp sites tap water, I could just imagine how busy it would be in good weather, but today I was alone.



Leaving Hågnarp, the trail bordered farmland and the mist covered fields were quiet with no evidence of grazing animals.



The walk provides many historical interludes including stone walls, old bridges, former houses as well as what is described as " one of the best-preserved linbastorna (a house where flax was prepared) in northeast Scania" as described in the guide.





Soon after passing the linbastorna I arrived at Olastorp shelter, a nice shelter with a rapidly flowing stream nearby. I chose to set the Spinntwinn up above the shelter it provided wonderful view of the small valley below as well as the sunrise the following morning.


After a leisurely start I set off firstly along a minor road before heading along an old forestry trail I was just happy to wander along the trail, and whilst there was no outstanding views with the sunshine and changing colours it provided a pleasant walking experience.



As I wandered I was quite taken by the different colours of the ferns and the way the leaves glistened in the sunlight.



Along the way I greeted by an interesting figure suggesting which way I should go.




Finally I arrived at Vittsjö and awaited a bus that would take me home, reflecting on a pleasant walk in Skåne, I will return.

Gear Observations.

This was the third trip I have used the Salomon XT Wings 2, and I continue to be happy with them, there was a few spots where the grip was challenged but with many forestry trails and well used foot trails they were ideal. When I next return to the Skåne forests I will probably bring my Speedcross 2's.

It was my first trip with my Western Mountaineering Hooded Flash Jacket, thanks to Martin's informative review, I decided to give it a go as I was looking for a warm down jacket for 3 season use, I was not disappointed and will be using it on coming trips and may pair it with a BPL Cocoon hoody for winter use.

I used a Gossamer Gear Spinntwinn for this trip and was as expected very happy with its utility, though I did think that I would prefer a mid for some trips.

The star of the trip was hrXXLight bouillon, I mixed this with 3 minute noodles and it was a very tasty change from cheap flavoured noodle mixes, I am now exploring other dehydrated bouillon options.

So as one trip ends another is planned to the coasts of Jylland, stay tuned.

Along the Nordkalottleden Part 3: Jerta to Kilipsjärvi

After a windy night, it was quieter in the morning (however morning is defined when it is never dark) Whilst it was light inside the tent, I was not completely sure if the fog had lifted, I looked outside and it had but only a 100 metres or so.
Now into my usual routine cooking breakfast packing up and extracting myself from the tent and set about finishing the packing. It was apparent that the weather was improving and as I descended to Skaktardalen.
The Skaktardalen is a wonderful valley with a broad shallow river which according to the Norwegian guy I met was great for fishing, it would have also been a great pack rafting river in my view. Reaching the river I noticed a tent to my left and the couple inside were just beginning breakfast, I waved they waved but we never spoke. When I read the logbook in Pältsastugan it was apparent to me that they were hiking to Abisko along the Nordkalottleden.



Crossing the river I began to climb around the flank of stuora Nanna, by now the sun had come out and with a light breeze it made for pleasant hiking. Also in the back of my mind was an awareness that my sleeping bag was a little damp from the previous night so after a while I decided it was time to stop, dry out the gear and just plain relax. Which I did. I also noticed at this time what appeared to be a pair of Rough Legged Buzzards high up on the cliffs enjoying the warm air.

After a while of sitting I began to realise that there were a number of tents along the Skaktardalen, there did not seem to be much movement so I wondered if they were fishing, relaxing or avoiding bugs, though I doubt it was the latter, it really was a nice day.

I finally decided that the sleeping bag was dry enough and continued to sidle stuora Nanna finally descending to two unnamed lakes which drained to Skaktardalen. As I descended there was the inevitable heath, black mud and mosquitos, but again not enough to really trouble me. I was also taken by the 2 hunting birds, possibly Merlin who were soaring above the cliffs. Climbing away from the lakes I headed North East towards Dærthytta, a spot for lunch was found and I sat for a while just enjoying the sun whilst drying boots and socks. After lunch with a descent to Cievččasjávri brought mosquitos which were quick to rise from their shady spots among the rocks and I was quick to keep moving. They did not detract from the walk and I was forever looking around to see what I could inclduing a Sami village to the west. Ultimately I arrived at Dærtahytta, though my goal was further north.

After a break I headed north only to be confronted by a dead end valley and the only way out was up with a climb of about 100 metres across talus. I finally reached the top and noticed that at 950 metres there was still ice on the lakes. I continued across the rock strewn land scape till I found a campsite on the Øvre Dividal nasjonalpark boundary at about 1100 m.



Whilst having dinner I had a surprise guest, a Lemming, it did not seem too concerned by me, but should have been grateful that I was there while the Longtailed Skua searched for food. It was a pleasant evening and relaxing outside the tent was the reward for an enjoyable days hiking.


It was a little greyer the next morning, and I continued my onward trek north and given that I had had no telephone signal for 5 days I was hopeful that today may provide the reassuring option of sending a message to say I am ok. There was little climbing to do and I was soon at the top of the saddle before the long descent to Rostahytta. Soon I came across what was the most elaborate stone cairn I had seen so out came the camera.



I continued the descent past some lakes and was impressed by the sedimentary rocks with their many layers.





The gradual descent through grassy plains with wildflowers blooming finally led me to Rostahytta, my lunch stop.





I sat there enjoying the sunshine while taking in the views to the north and south, while doing so a Norwegian couple arrived with 2 dogs, they were intending to stay in the hytta and were happy to describe their hiking experiences in Nepal to me. I was also impressed by the size of the woodstack, that is some sauna they must have.



After a long lunch break I headed upstream along the Nordakalottleden. Soon you pass the trail though Isdalen, I have no idea why the trail continues along the valley, the trip through Isdalen looks much more interesting. The remainder of the day was spent walking along what is best described as a quad motor bike trail. Ultimately I found a place to stop and as long as the breeze blew there would be few bugs. The breeze did stop later and the bugs appeared.
The next morning it was calm, mild and very humid. So aside from the mosquitos it was not very pleasant and as soon as there was a climb you were sweating, but it was not raining. So I was wandering along as I do, when out to the left I noticed this peak and I said “WOW” it was Pältsan standing at 1442m. I found a spot to sit, take photos and admire it and the surrounding mountains beginning to realise that this would possibly be the last real peaks I would see on the trip.



After a break I set off towards Pältsastugen for lunch as I approached the stugan I met 3 Finnish hikers who were intending to climb Pältsan, apparently there is a log book at the top. I continued on my way never knowing whether they climbed it or not.
Arriving at Pältsa stugan I was met by the warden, he was very helpful in advising me of all the local beauty spots as well as showing me the two visitor books. The Nordakalottleden Book contained entries of those specifically hiking the trail. I was to be the first heading North (for 2010) with one other couple heading south. I sat around for quite a while with one excursion to the nearby waterfalls. It would have been easy to be seduced by the comforts of the hut, but I decided to move on.


So after a very relaxing time in the hut I decided to move on to a camp up high near the border of Sweden, Norway and Finland. It was a long climb from the stugan under darkening skies, two hikers passed me going south with big packs on, I assumed they were staying at Pältsastugen. After a long climb I reached the saddle as the rain began to fall. The landscape in front of me was a rock and grass covered landscape interspersed with lakes and snow drifts. As I descended towards the first lake I noticed a hiker heading towards me, he was a New Zealander who had been attempting to hike the whole trail only to be stopped by flooded rivers north of Kilipsjärvi.

We chatted for a while during which he suggested I should stay at Kuokkmajärvi a hut on the Finnish side of the border. We went our separate ways, however, he did note my smaller pack, his was the bombproof 90 litre Macpac Cascade. I continued across the barren landscape as it became increasingly dull (at 4 pm).

I finally descended towards Treriksröset (three borders). It was close to 8 pm by the time I arrived and I had the place to myself, it was some what humid and the insects were active. From here it was a short walk to Kuokkmajärvi, I met up with 3 Finnish ladies who were waiting for the remainder of their group to arrive. They advised me that there was a few mosquitos in the hut, upon inspection I decided a tent was a better option.





So with a 3 km walk in the morning the trip was all but complete. I enjoyed a late dinner and then retired for the night with the mosquitos in evidence but not in plague proportions, that was in the forest I was told.





There was a minor panic in the morning when I realised that the boat operated on Finnish time which was 1 hour ahead of my clock, but not to despair I still had plenty of time and sat beside Yinan Kilipsjärvi waiting for the boat to depart.
Alighting from the boat I walked up to Retkeilykeskus, and tested their showers, as well as the all you can eat buffet and their reindeer hamburgers.

Later in the day the bus to Tromsø arrived. There was one surprise left, the bus trip, which was perhaps the most scenic bus trip I have ever been on.

Björkliden to Kilipsjärvi: Part 1. Björkliden to Gaskashytta

The trip was the culmination of 12 months of planning after unexpected changes in 2009. I had decided to change the direction for transport reasons to a South to North trip along the Nordkalottleden. I travelled by XJ 2000 from Copenhagen to Stockholm Central and then the night train to Narvik, alighting at Björkliden RS at 11 am on Saturday morning.

There were many hikers on board the night train and most of them alighted at Abisko (both stations) and were presumably heading south along the Kungsleden.
It was a beautiful sunny morning and shorts and short sleeve shirts seemed to be the way to go. Having crossed the railway tracks I headed west along the north side of the line with views of Torneträsk further north. It was then I realised that “I am actually here and hiking along the Nordkalottleden.” it was a great feeling. The trail meanders between the railway line and road to Narvik, climbing a little and providing some views to the north, it was also evident that the sky was rapidly darkening.
So before long it was on with the windshirt and decisions on whether the Montane Featherlight pants should be worn. After about 2 hours I stopped besides Báktájøhkaluobbalat as the rain began to fall. It was here I cooked lunch and donned the Oz Pullover. After lunch I soon crossed the road and headed north in the increasing wind and rain, which was when I began to realise why I should have packed the Rab Demand and not the Haglöffs top. Aside from the rain and wind it was an undulating walk through low shrubs and trees and with a full pack it seemed like slow going.
I continued on finally reaching the bridge across Njuoraeatnu.



I began to realise that I would not reach my intended destination Lappjordhytta a locked DNT hut in Norway, instead I decided to stay at Pånostugan as the rain continued to fall. I reached Pånostugan quickly realising that I was wet through from the rain, especially on the top of half of my body and this was the second time that I had ended up wet when wearing the OZ pullover (when will I ever learn?)



Having arrived at the hut I set about hanging out damp clothes and deciding a fire in the stove would help to dry the wet gear. Fortunately there was some matches and I discovered how easily birch bark lights and I had a fire going in the stove and the clothes were drying. Much to my surprise, and to a couple from Narvik, who arrived to find me comfortably ensconced in the hut, when they had hoped for a quiet night. The rain had cleared by now and we had a chat about gear, the area and food. I appreciated their chocolate chip cookies. Given a long day tomorrow I retired for the night and was soon asleep.
I awoke to an overcast and windy morning and having eaten breakfast I was quickly packed and out the door. Whilst the couple slept on. There was to be a lot of climbing for the day having started at 380 m, I would climb through a pass at 950 m before descending to a yet to be determined camp.

Soon I was crossing into Norway from Sweden and would stay in Norway for the most of the trip.



With Lappjordhytta perched on a cliff top in the distance, I began the climb all the time admiring the scenery to the left and right and behind, with stunning views to the south.



After a little while I had reached the hytta and took time to enjoy the view and note appropriate campsites should I ever return to this area.



Soon I was climbing again with the wind behind me, something I began to appreciate more and more as the day progressed. Quickly I was out of the trees and climbing in the open slopes of Ganaśbaḱti, it surprised me to see small patches of flowers out in such adverse conditions.

As I climbed I encountered my first small herd of reindeer and soon after snow drifts, a pattern that would continue for many days to come. The mist began to to encroach as I climbed and it was not long before I had the first wind driven snowfall, the wind was strong up here and could easily blow me off balance as I climbed. I was however, very glad that the wind was generally coming from behind. Overall the1 trail is well marked but as I climbed higher with snow still on the ground some of the rock cairns (marked with a red T) were difficult to find. The remainder of the day was very windy and foggy at times and as I descended (or was blown) down the Luirevaggi valley, surrounded by snow capped peaks, I appreciated the ruggedness and beauty that surrounded me. The valley was mostly covered in shallow soft snow which made for slow going at times especially over the talus strewn landscape. As I descended I passed a Sami village, and finally I found a slightly sheltered place for lunch next to a small waterfall.


After lunch I continued down the valley only to be introduced to the Longtail Skua, now these seabirds nest on the tundra and unknown to me they are a little aggressive, so I suddenly found myself taking evasive action, though they never really approached more than 2 metres away. I soon learnt to recognise their call and keep an eye out for the white breast of the bird as they sat on a rock looking for unsuspecting hikers. They eat fish and live on lemmings in the tundra.

Soon I came across one of the first significant river crossings and was pleased to see that I could keep my feet dry as I crossed, then as I sat for a rest beside the river the sun appeared briefly and with a watchful eye out for a Skua I relaxed in a sheltered spot. I was soon on my way again it was getting late and it appeared it would rain again I looked out for a campsite beside the fast flowing Salvasskardet, and after passing a narrow gorge a flat spot was found and camp set up for the night.



With the wind still blowing insects were not a problem, but it was soon raining so I retired to the tent after a long and eventful day. This was to be my first night in a tent in Lapland with the midnight sun, but I hardly noticed the extra light as the sky was clouded over.

I awoke to another grey day, with much less wind along with the occasional mosquito. Today was intended to be a shorter day and it would take me through the small village of Innset also I would be in the forest most of the day.
I quickly found the access trail used by the quad motor bikes travelling to the Sami village and headed down stream towards Innset admiring the rugged valleys and surrounding snow capped peaks. It was also evident that the weather was improving with the occasional hint of blue sky. Passing across the large dam wall of Altevatn through the village of Innset, I noted the offer by the Husky Farm to come and collect hikers and provide them with accommodation for the night. I also noted that there is now a hytta in Innset named Altevasshytta (which was not shown on my maps). At the end of a gravel road out of Innset there is the familiar red “T” markings which take you towards the Koeivatnet a lake fed fast flowing stream passing through a small rocky gorge where the bridge is located. Well the bridge was interesting, would you cross this bridge?



I chose to walk about half a kilometre south and wade the thigh high fast flowing river. My boots, were no longer dry. After wading the river I picked up the trail now as it sidled around Lifjellet. Here there was no wind, some mud, more mosquitos and many boardwalks. It was on one of those water covered board walks that I slipped, resulting in a sore knee which slowed me down for a couple of days as well I had a slightly bent alloy Pacerpole. I never did like board walks.
So with many small streams and forest sections it was slow progress towards Gaskashytta. But with clearing views to the south across Altevatn there was always variation to be seen. Soon as I rounded Lifjelletangen the roar of the powerful Luodnavaggi river flowing rapidly towards Altevatn could be heard, the map indicated there was a bridge (I hoped so).



Sure enough there was one of the many suspension bridges I would meet, so I quickly crossed and headed to the hytta before looking for a campsite.

I decided to cross Strömskardet to the east of the hytta before looking for a campsite, only to be presented with a 3 metre wide chasm and a rapidly flowing river below. Hmmm ...



So down stream I headed, for about a kilometre and then found a crossing only about a metre deep and 50 metres wide. After sidling along the river bank and surprising some reindeer I found a nice campsite with views to the south and settled down for the night. Mind you the sound of the repetitive call of the Cuckoo, did make make me wonder about my sanity as well as how many more interesting river crossings there would be in the coming days.

Scandinavian Bloggers Meet Up: Vålådalen

I set off from Copenhagen to Stockholm to meet with 5 other Scandinavian bloggers, having never met them before this provided an interesting background to the beginning of what turned out to be a wonderfully wet experience in Vålådalen.I arrived in Stockholm and set off to buy some gas for my stove. Returning to Stockholm central station, where I was to meet Joe and Hendrik, I spent some time people watching and wondering how I could recognise Joe and Hendrik, fortunately having watched many of Hendrik's videos he was easily recognisable as was Joe. Depositing our bags in a locker we set off to the outdoor shops where Hendrik was keen to purchase a 120 litre Fjällräven pack for the trip whilst Joe was interested in the smaller 100 litre packs. Sadly we were unable to get the correct size and soon returned to the railway station to meet the Swedish bloggers, now this was the challenge we were to meet at The Ring, which is a popular meeting spot we discovered, however, it was the Inov 8 shoes which gave it away and we had soon met up with Martin and later Gustav, also in Inov8's.
Off to Olearys (there is an Irish pub or 2 in very town) for dinner where we were soon joined by Jörgen and now we were 6. After dinner and carbohydrate loading we wandered down to our home for the night the Night Train to Storlien. Finding our bunks we soon set about the task of fitting 6 hikers and gear into a confined area. We were awoken the next morning to the news that we were about an hour late, so we took our time with a leisurely breakfast (almost too leisurely for some) after which we alighted the train at Undersaker where we were met by Stefan's Taxi which then drove us to the start of the walk after a quick gear drop off of the gear not required for the trip which for Joe included his Neo Air.

A group photo was taken in the misty grey morning as three other heavily loaded walkers set off for their 3 day trip. The trail wandered through the forests, with the mist covered mountains as a backdrop, we soon settled into a pleasant pace with conversations on many topics taking place, perhaps interestingly for me at least, I never took the map out the whole trip but instead left it to Jörgen, Martin and Gustav to lead the way. This of course did lead to the occasional discussions between the trio on what was the best route. Soon we had reached a view point over Vålån and stopped for a break, Martin and Gustav introduced us to Runekager as light rain began to fall. There was also much viewing of others gear, there was Hendrik with his Laufbursche huckePack, Joe with his Gossamer Gear Gorilla, Gustave with his Gossamer Gear Murmur, Jörgen with his Mariposa, Martin with his Granite Gear pack and me with my Aarn Mountain Magic 55, as well there was a range of walking poles including Gossamer Gear LT 4's, Mountain Kings from the UK, ski poles and Pacer Poles. The GG packs and LT4's were loaned to the group by Gossamer Gear (thanks). We headed off in a westerly direction and soon Jörgen said this is where we leave the trail and before long we found ourselves wading a river (no more dry feet or shoes) and not long afterwards a lunch spot was found, soon 2 bushbuddies, 1 evernew dx woodburner and 3 gas stoves including the Monatauk Gnat were out cooking lunch. It was a tranquil spot with views over the lake.

Eventually it was time to move and under Jörgen's expert navigation we headed towards the banks of Vålån which we would follow the remainder of the day.
It was a wonderful walk along the untracked eastern side of the river, occasionally we would find animal pads or follow the river bank or make our own trail through the old forest meanwhile there was always the sound of the river to keep us company.


Finally we reached a spot near a set a of rapids which seemed like a great spot for camping.



We looked for spots in the open forest and soon there were six different shelters (Trailstar, Gatewood Cape, Duomid, Hilleberg Rajd, Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn and Flysheet from a Terra Nova Photon). Soon I discovered the value of the trailstar there were not many flat spots but I was able to put the shelter up and then locate an ideal spot under it for the night, I slept very well as did everyone else and it was a late start the next day. After a leisurely breakfast in bed I wandered over to the fire where Jörgen was eating breakfast soon we were joined by the remainder of the group and we sat around talking, drinking coffee and just enjoying the surrounds.

It was another grey morning and whilst the cloud seemed a little higher the peaks were still covered in cloud. The plan for today was to continue to follow the river northwards until we met the trail connecting Vålåstugorna and Lunndörrsstugona and then follow the path west ultimately camping in Issjödalen. As we climbed we began to pass through drifts of snow as the forest thinned out, as well it was a little breezier and the rain/mist ensured that our wet weather gear was on at all times.


However, I did not find it unpleasant and the expansive views of the valleys made up for the discomfort, soon after disturbing a couple of reindeer we reached the trail and began skirting Trondfjällen before descending into the Luunndörrssån valley. Just as my feet were beginning to dry we came to the inevitable ford and so my feet were soon wet again, a state which they would remain for the rest of the trip. It was also where the "Inov8 boys" allowed themselves to be photographed together, the photographer was not wearing Inov8s.
Crossing the Lunndörrssån on a suspension bridge we soon found ourselves climbing past some lakes before arriving at Lunndörrstugorna, the wind had increased and with the mist, the shelter was a pleasant escape from the cold outside. This was a lunch stop and Gustav was proud of the fact that he had got his bushbuddy burning and water boiled, he was less happy when he spilt the water, this was not to be the last time. After a long lunch we walked past the locked sauna and climbed away from Lunndörrstugorna, it was still misty and cool and it took me a little while to warm up again, soon we were in the surreal treeless landscape below Stor-Gröngumpen with views to the north of the pyramids as described by Gustav in his tour of 2009. It was approaching 6 pm as we descended towards Issjön (Ice lake) and the breeze ensured that we did not stand around chatting as we passed the Kings hunting lodge. We continued to descend in search of sheltered campsite finally arriving at Grönvallen, it was evident that we were going to get very wet feet the next morning so we back tracked to a field and set up camp. The ground was very wet and the mosquitos were already out and warming up for the summer. It was pleasant night spent discussing a range of things, including gear, food, cooking etc.

The morning brought with it the occasion patches of blue sky, indicating that as we were leaving the weather would improve. Breakfast taken slowly with Joe demonstrating his capabilities of making muffins.

It was to be a short day today and after packing we headed past the cottages of Grönvallen and commenced walking through water along the trail for the next half kilometre before passing by Stor Vargtjärnen with its panoramic views of Middagsvalen resplendent with its radio tower on top, by now the sun was breaking through which made for a pleasant walk across Vargtjärnflåtet soon it was lunchtime.
After lunch reality began to appear with houses, dogs cars and bitumen roads and with in an hour after the final group photos we were back at Vålågårdens camping and the only things left to do was have a sauna, shower, enjoy the sunshine and dry out gear and have a beer or 2.

Words cannot really describe the wonders of the trip, both from a scenery perspective as well as from an educational perspective. The trip demonstrated to me that there is always something to learn or at least different perspectives on old ideas to consider.

My gear

Trailstar: excellent shelter, plenty of space and allows for the solo walker to locate a flat comfortable spot even if the ground is uneven, it is possible to sit up in it and also provides the opportunity to look outside without the need to open a door. My go to shelter.

Aarn Mountain Magic 55l, I used smaller front pockets so it could be better described as a 40 litre pack, with its water proof liner it is ideal in the conditions we experienced as everything was kept dry inside. Once the straps are adjusted for fit then the pack moves with you and is very comfortable, the front balance pockets are ideal for storing the days needs along with camera, tripod etc. The main sack has a dry bag, which can be unvelcroed and the trailstar was stored in an Exped drybag, inside the main bag. However, the trailstar would have fitted into the small front mesh pocket at the rear. If I had been using the normal balance pockets then the tarp could have been carried in one of those (the balance pockets also have removable dry bags).

Rab Demand Pullon: I wore this most of the time and was very impressed, it breathes superbly (too well for at times I felt the cooling inside the jacket) it has a roomy hood and excellent zip and Napoleon pocket, this will be jacket of choice in my upcoming trip to Lapland.

Hendrik offered me the use of the Monatauk Gnat (currently the worlds lightest gas stove) the stove works well and certainly packs small, I used the accompanying carrying case which according to Hendrik almost weighs the same as the stove, unfortunately I do not have any fuel consumption figures as I had to buy my gas in Stockholm and then gave the bottle to Martin as I was unable to carry it on the plane. No doubt there will be many more posts and photographs from other members of the group, so keep an eye on the following blogs.
Hiking in Finland
The bearablelightness
Thunder in the Night
Fjäderlätt
A special thanks goes to Hendrik for instigating the idea and to Martin, Jörgen and Gustav for logistics of an excellent trip. Thanks