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Off to Olearys (there is an Irish pub or 2 in very town) for dinner where we were soon joined by Jörgen and now we were 6. After dinner and carbohydrate loading we wandered down to our home for the night the Night Train to Storlien. Finding our bunks we soon set about the task of fitting 6 hikers and gear into a confined area. We were awoken the next morning to the news that we were about an hour late, so we took our time with a leisurely breakfast (almost too leisurely for some) after which we alighted the train at Undersaker where we were met by Stefan's Taxi which then drove us to the start of the walk after a quick gear drop off of the gear not required for the trip which for Joe included his Neo Air.
A group photo was taken in the misty grey morning as three other heavily loaded walkers set off for their 3 day trip. The trail wandered through the forests, with the mist covered mountains as a backdrop, we soon settled into a pleasant pace with conversations on many topics taking place, perhaps interestingly for me at least, I never took the map out the whole trip but instead left it to Jörgen, Martin and Gustav to lead the way.
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Eventually it was time to move and under Jörgen's expert navigation we headed towards the banks of Vålån which we would follow the remainder of the day.
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It was a wonderful walk along the untracked eastern side of the river, occasionally we would find animal pads or follow the river bank or make our own trail through the old forest meanwhile there was always the sound of the river to keep us company.
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Finally we reached a spot near a set a of rapids which seemed like a great spot for camping.
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We looked for spots in the open forest and soon there were six different shelters (Trailstar, Gatewood Cape, Duomid, Hilleberg Rajd, Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn and Flysheet from a Terra Nova Photon). Soon I discovered the value of the trailstar there were not many flat spots but I was able to put the shelter up and then locate an ideal spot under it for the night, I slept very well as did everyone else and it was a late start the next day. After a leisurely breakfast in bed I wandered over to the fire where Jörgen was eating breakfast soon we were joined by the remainder of the group and we sat around talking, drinking coffee and just enjoying the surrounds.
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It was another grey morning and whilst the cloud seemed a little higher the peaks were still covered in cloud. The plan for today was to continue to follow the river northwards until we met the trail connecting Vålåstugorna and Lunndörrsstugona and then follow the path west ultimately camping in Issjödalen. As we climbed we began to pass through drifts of snow as the forest thinned out, as well it was a little breezier and the rain/mist ensured that our wet weather gear was on at all times.
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However, I did not find it unpleasant and the expansive views of the valleys made up for the discomfort, soon after disturbing a couple of reindeer we reached the trail and began skirting Trondfjällen before descending into the Luunndörrssån valley. Just as my feet were beginning to dry we came to the inevitable ford and so my feet were soon wet again, a state which they would remain for the rest of the trip. It was also where the "Inov8 boys" allowed themselves to be photographed together, the photographer was not wearing Inov8s.
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Crossing the Lunndörrssån on a suspension bridge we soon found ourselves climbing past some lakes before arriving at Lunndörrstugorna, the wind had increased and with the mist, the shelter was a pleasant escape from the cold outside. This was a lunch stop and Gustav was proud of the fact that he had got his bushbuddy burning and water boiled, he was less happy when he spilt the water, this was not to be the last time. After a long lunch we walked past the locked sauna and climbed away from Lunndörrstugorna, it was still misty and cool and it took me a little while to warm up again, soon we were in the surreal treeless landscape below Stor-Gröngumpen with views to the north of the pyramids as described by Gustav in his tour of 2009.
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The morning brought with it the occasion patches of blue sky, indicating that as we were leaving the weather would improve. Breakfast taken slowly with Joe demonstrating his capabilities of making muffins.
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It was to be a short day today and after packing we headed past the cottages of Grönvallen and commenced walking through water along the trail for the next half kilometre before passing by Stor Vargtjärnen with its panoramic views of Middagsvalen resplendent with its radio tower on top, by now the sun was breaking through which made for a pleasant walk across Vargtjärnflåtet soon it was lunchtime.
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After lunch reality began to appear with houses, dogs cars and bitumen roads and with in an hour after the final group photos we were back at Vålågårdens camping and the only things left to do was have a sauna, shower, enjoy the sunshine and dry out gear and have a beer or 2.
Words cannot really describe the wonders of the trip, both from a scenery perspective as well as from an educational perspective. The trip demonstrated to me that there is always something to learn or at least different perspectives on old ideas to consider.
My gear
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Aarn Mountain Magic 55l, I used smaller front pockets so it could be better described as a 40 litre pack, with its water proof liner it is ideal in the conditions we experienced as everything was kept dry inside. Once the straps are adjusted for fit then the pack moves with you and is very comfortable, the front balance pockets are ideal for storing the days needs along with camera, tripod etc. The main sack has a dry bag, which can be unvelcroed and the trailstar was stored in an Exped drybag, inside the main bag. However, the trailstar would have fitted into the small front mesh pocket at the rear. If I had been using the normal balance pockets then the tarp could have been carried in one of those (the balance pockets also have removable dry bags).
Rab Demand Pullon: I wore this most of the time and was very impressed, it breathes superbly (too well for at times I felt the cooling inside the jacket) it has a roomy hood and excellent zip and Napoleon pocket, this will be jacket of choice in my upcoming trip to Lapland.
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Hendrik offered me the use of the Monatauk Gnat (currently the worlds lightest gas stove) the stove works well and certainly packs small, I used the accompanying carrying case which according to Hendrik almost weighs the same as the stove, unfortunately I do not have any fuel consumption figures as I had to buy my gas in Stockholm and then gave the bottle to Martin as I was unable to carry it on the plane. No doubt there will be many more posts and photographs from other members of the group, so keep an eye on the following blogs.
Hiking in Finland
The bearablelightness
Thunder in the Night
Fjäderlätt
A special thanks goes to Hendrik for instigating the idea and to Martin, Jörgen and Gustav for logistics of an excellent trip. Thanks
Thanks for coming, Roger, and the superb write-up! I am amazed that you know all the names of the places, I would only be able to name the Pyramids and Vålån as landmarks =) I am looking forward to meet you again on the next Nordic Bloggers Meet-up!
ReplyDeleteGreat read Roger. There is a lot you can learn and gain meeting other backpackers. I look forward to their reports.
ReplyDeleteGreat report - thanks for making and sharing!
ReplyDeleteA great write up and some superb wild scenery there Roger. Looked like a good trip with good company.
ReplyDeleteNice report, Roger. And great photos.
ReplyDeleteI have been in this area a couple of times, so some of the views are familar.
Looked like a superb trip.
Looking forward to read the others reports.
Very interesting read. What was the photographer with no Inov8s wearing?
ReplyDeleteThanks Hendrik, I use the map to help me and have a reasonable sense of direction (which is occasionally screwed up because the sun is in the south not north, where I come from) I am always interested in another trip.
ReplyDeleteUndoubtedly a lot can be learnt Martin, fortunately blogging has helped in that education process especially when you move regions as I have.
Thanks Thomas, James and Roger, yes it is a great area and I too am looking forward to the other reports, undoubtedly they will provide a different perspective.
Thanks Harttj I was the photographer and I wore Salmon Fastpackers.
I completely enjoyed your walk report and the photo's. You must of had a great time.
ReplyDeleteBeen looking forwards to this and wasn't dissapointed. Glad to hear all went so well. Certainly looks as wet on the photos as you tell it. Surprised you went with gas since you give the impression of being more of a meths man but I take your point in teh following post. I'm much happier using gas in a tent.
ReplyDeleteGreat blog. Just joined the inov8 club myself. Been experimenting with goretex socks to get round the wet feet issue - promising results but not yet convinced.
ReplyDeleteThanks for coming along Roger. Is was great fun hanging out with everyone at last. It was also nice just to sit back and other people worry about the route finding! When we meet up in our own countries the pressure will be on to navigate!
ReplyDeleteThanks Odyssee yes it was a great trip and whilst it was damp it was never unbearable in my view. Dave as you noted you were surprised I carried gas, it was with the intention of testing gear for the Nordkalotten. There is still a chance that I will not take gas, the stove situation is one of my biggest conundrums for the trip.
ReplyDeleteGavin, I use gtx boots (not by choice) and they filled up with water on the first day and stayed wet till the last day. However, with woollen socks on, my feet never feel cold so not a big issue in my view.
Thanks Joe, it was a real pleasure to actually meet up with bloggers who I have been reading for a while.
Looks wet and wonderful. Checking out Inov-8 right now!
ReplyDeleteMark Innov8 are great shoes, I have tried them but they did not work for me. Or may be it was I did not work for them, I still hope that one day I can return to Innov8's
ReplyDeleteNice report Roger. I especially liked the fact that you took the time to include the geographical references. They will be very useful for people who want to visit the same places. I liked the photos too. It was really superb trip and the company couldn't have been better.
ReplyDeleteThanks Gustav, yes I always like to provide some details of the location to help readers find out a little more especially if they are interested in visiting the area. Getting the spelling correct is some times a challenge : )
ReplyDeleteTrue a superb trip with great company and an area I intend to revisit.