Scandinavian Bloggers Meet Up: Vålådalen

I set off from Copenhagen to Stockholm to meet with 5 other Scandinavian bloggers, having never met them before this provided an interesting background to the beginning of what turned out to be a wonderfully wet experience in Vålådalen.I arrived in Stockholm and set off to buy some gas for my stove. Returning to Stockholm central station, where I was to meet Joe and Hendrik, I spent some time people watching and wondering how I could recognise Joe and Hendrik, fortunately having watched many of Hendrik's videos he was easily recognisable as was Joe. Depositing our bags in a locker we set off to the outdoor shops where Hendrik was keen to purchase a 120 litre Fjällräven pack for the trip whilst Joe was interested in the smaller 100 litre packs. Sadly we were unable to get the correct size and soon returned to the railway station to meet the Swedish bloggers, now this was the challenge we were to meet at The Ring, which is a popular meeting spot we discovered, however, it was the Inov 8 shoes which gave it away and we had soon met up with Martin and later Gustav, also in Inov8's.
Off to Olearys (there is an Irish pub or 2 in very town) for dinner where we were soon joined by Jörgen and now we were 6. After dinner and carbohydrate loading we wandered down to our home for the night the Night Train to Storlien. Finding our bunks we soon set about the task of fitting 6 hikers and gear into a confined area. We were awoken the next morning to the news that we were about an hour late, so we took our time with a leisurely breakfast (almost too leisurely for some) after which we alighted the train at Undersaker where we were met by Stefan's Taxi which then drove us to the start of the walk after a quick gear drop off of the gear not required for the trip which for Joe included his Neo Air.

A group photo was taken in the misty grey morning as three other heavily loaded walkers set off for their 3 day trip. The trail wandered through the forests, with the mist covered mountains as a backdrop, we soon settled into a pleasant pace with conversations on many topics taking place, perhaps interestingly for me at least, I never took the map out the whole trip but instead left it to Jörgen, Martin and Gustav to lead the way. This of course did lead to the occasional discussions between the trio on what was the best route. Soon we had reached a view point over Vålån and stopped for a break, Martin and Gustav introduced us to Runekager as light rain began to fall. There was also much viewing of others gear, there was Hendrik with his Laufbursche huckePack, Joe with his Gossamer Gear Gorilla, Gustave with his Gossamer Gear Murmur, Jörgen with his Mariposa, Martin with his Granite Gear pack and me with my Aarn Mountain Magic 55, as well there was a range of walking poles including Gossamer Gear LT 4's, Mountain Kings from the UK, ski poles and Pacer Poles. The GG packs and LT4's were loaned to the group by Gossamer Gear (thanks). We headed off in a westerly direction and soon Jörgen said this is where we leave the trail and before long we found ourselves wading a river (no more dry feet or shoes) and not long afterwards a lunch spot was found, soon 2 bushbuddies, 1 evernew dx woodburner and 3 gas stoves including the Monatauk Gnat were out cooking lunch. It was a tranquil spot with views over the lake.

Eventually it was time to move and under Jörgen's expert navigation we headed towards the banks of Vålån which we would follow the remainder of the day.
It was a wonderful walk along the untracked eastern side of the river, occasionally we would find animal pads or follow the river bank or make our own trail through the old forest meanwhile there was always the sound of the river to keep us company.


Finally we reached a spot near a set a of rapids which seemed like a great spot for camping.



We looked for spots in the open forest and soon there were six different shelters (Trailstar, Gatewood Cape, Duomid, Hilleberg Rajd, Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn and Flysheet from a Terra Nova Photon). Soon I discovered the value of the trailstar there were not many flat spots but I was able to put the shelter up and then locate an ideal spot under it for the night, I slept very well as did everyone else and it was a late start the next day. After a leisurely breakfast in bed I wandered over to the fire where Jörgen was eating breakfast soon we were joined by the remainder of the group and we sat around talking, drinking coffee and just enjoying the surrounds.

It was another grey morning and whilst the cloud seemed a little higher the peaks were still covered in cloud. The plan for today was to continue to follow the river northwards until we met the trail connecting Vålåstugorna and Lunndörrsstugona and then follow the path west ultimately camping in Issjödalen. As we climbed we began to pass through drifts of snow as the forest thinned out, as well it was a little breezier and the rain/mist ensured that our wet weather gear was on at all times.


However, I did not find it unpleasant and the expansive views of the valleys made up for the discomfort, soon after disturbing a couple of reindeer we reached the trail and began skirting Trondfjällen before descending into the Luunndörrssån valley. Just as my feet were beginning to dry we came to the inevitable ford and so my feet were soon wet again, a state which they would remain for the rest of the trip. It was also where the "Inov8 boys" allowed themselves to be photographed together, the photographer was not wearing Inov8s.
Crossing the Lunndörrssån on a suspension bridge we soon found ourselves climbing past some lakes before arriving at Lunndörrstugorna, the wind had increased and with the mist, the shelter was a pleasant escape from the cold outside. This was a lunch stop and Gustav was proud of the fact that he had got his bushbuddy burning and water boiled, he was less happy when he spilt the water, this was not to be the last time. After a long lunch we walked past the locked sauna and climbed away from Lunndörrstugorna, it was still misty and cool and it took me a little while to warm up again, soon we were in the surreal treeless landscape below Stor-Gröngumpen with views to the north of the pyramids as described by Gustav in his tour of 2009. It was approaching 6 pm as we descended towards Issjön (Ice lake) and the breeze ensured that we did not stand around chatting as we passed the Kings hunting lodge. We continued to descend in search of sheltered campsite finally arriving at Grönvallen, it was evident that we were going to get very wet feet the next morning so we back tracked to a field and set up camp. The ground was very wet and the mosquitos were already out and warming up for the summer. It was pleasant night spent discussing a range of things, including gear, food, cooking etc.

The morning brought with it the occasion patches of blue sky, indicating that as we were leaving the weather would improve. Breakfast taken slowly with Joe demonstrating his capabilities of making muffins.

It was to be a short day today and after packing we headed past the cottages of Grönvallen and commenced walking through water along the trail for the next half kilometre before passing by Stor Vargtjärnen with its panoramic views of Middagsvalen resplendent with its radio tower on top, by now the sun was breaking through which made for a pleasant walk across Vargtjärnflåtet soon it was lunchtime.
After lunch reality began to appear with houses, dogs cars and bitumen roads and with in an hour after the final group photos we were back at Vålågårdens camping and the only things left to do was have a sauna, shower, enjoy the sunshine and dry out gear and have a beer or 2.

Words cannot really describe the wonders of the trip, both from a scenery perspective as well as from an educational perspective. The trip demonstrated to me that there is always something to learn or at least different perspectives on old ideas to consider.

My gear

Trailstar: excellent shelter, plenty of space and allows for the solo walker to locate a flat comfortable spot even if the ground is uneven, it is possible to sit up in it and also provides the opportunity to look outside without the need to open a door. My go to shelter.

Aarn Mountain Magic 55l, I used smaller front pockets so it could be better described as a 40 litre pack, with its water proof liner it is ideal in the conditions we experienced as everything was kept dry inside. Once the straps are adjusted for fit then the pack moves with you and is very comfortable, the front balance pockets are ideal for storing the days needs along with camera, tripod etc. The main sack has a dry bag, which can be unvelcroed and the trailstar was stored in an Exped drybag, inside the main bag. However, the trailstar would have fitted into the small front mesh pocket at the rear. If I had been using the normal balance pockets then the tarp could have been carried in one of those (the balance pockets also have removable dry bags).

Rab Demand Pullon: I wore this most of the time and was very impressed, it breathes superbly (too well for at times I felt the cooling inside the jacket) it has a roomy hood and excellent zip and Napoleon pocket, this will be jacket of choice in my upcoming trip to Lapland.

Hendrik offered me the use of the Monatauk Gnat (currently the worlds lightest gas stove) the stove works well and certainly packs small, I used the accompanying carrying case which according to Hendrik almost weighs the same as the stove, unfortunately I do not have any fuel consumption figures as I had to buy my gas in Stockholm and then gave the bottle to Martin as I was unable to carry it on the plane. No doubt there will be many more posts and photographs from other members of the group, so keep an eye on the following blogs.
Hiking in Finland
The bearablelightness
Thunder in the Night
Fjäderlätt
A special thanks goes to Hendrik for instigating the idea and to Martin, Jörgen and Gustav for logistics of an excellent trip. Thanks

Blekingeleden: Ronneby to Åkeholm

Continuing my wanderings along the Blekingeleden I caught the train to Ronneby station which is located about a kilometre north of where the trail crosses the Ronnebyån. Initially I followed a path along the western banks of the Ronnebyån, it was raining a little and very windy, but the walk was very pleasant.

Soon I found myself approaching Ronneby Bruunspark with its large gardens, lakes and waterfalls it is a picturesque spot there is also a large hotel there and undoubtedly in sunny weather it is very popular, with the wind blowing and the occasional rainshower it was very quiet. Having found the trail I followed it through the gardens and then up onto ridge before dropping down to Trollsjön.

The trail continued along well made paths, finally exiting the park on the western side near Bustorp. The trail then follows minor roads and footpaths through the forest passing small hamlets along the way, before climbing up onto Lånkkarraberg, which seemed like a nice place for lunch. What followed was a gradual descent through the forest a short road section before returning to forestry trails and foot trails. Soon the sounds of the rapidly flowing Vierydsån were heard, the Vierydsån drains Nässjön into the Vierydfjorden 10 km to the south.

The river is crossed on a small wooden bridge close to the original 19 th century bridge, and near to where King Christian IV of Denmark rested in 1618 on his way to Ronneby. Climbing away from Vierydsån through stands of beech and pine forest the trail skirts Stiasjön before entering the small hamlet of Hakarp, what then follows is a long road section through farmland with a couple of minor diversions through the forest. Ultimately the trail takes you into the forests of Järnavik Naturreservet, and almost with out warning you come over a rise to be greeted by expansive views of Järnavikafjorden. The elevated rock platform makes for an ideal view spot and provides a 180 degree panorama of the fjord with views to the sea, and it was possible to hear the sound of the ocean crashing onto the rocks a couple of kilometres away, a wonderful end to a long day.

The next morning I awoke to a misty start, the predicted overnight rain and thunderstorms had not eventuated. After a quick breakfast with a long day planned I was gone before 7 am, walking firstly through the quiet holiday township of Järnavik before returning to the Naturreservat, and leaving the coastline behind.

As the morning progressed the fog lifted but it remained overcast. A pleasant walk along a gravel road through the forests takes you to the E22 motorway, with the accompanying sound of vehicles travelling at high speed. Passing under the freeway the trail returns firstly to farmland and later forests as it wends its way north. Lunch was had on the banks of N Öllesjön, and one thing I have learnt is that it is always breezy on the sides of the lakes and at this time of the year it means cold.

After lunch and walking around the northern edge of the lake a road section takes you through along the northern side of O Kroksjön, passing a number of small cottages along the way. Crossing a canal connecting V Kroksjön and Björkesjön the trail climbs and then descends to Långasjön Naturreservat (home for the night)

I found a spot just large enough for the bivy and the Grace Solo tarp and proceeded to cook dinner and watch the setting sun acroos St. Kroksjön.

The following morning it was another a misty drizzly start as I headed towards the southern section of Långasjön, the water was calm with the only movement being ducks swimming across the lake.

Adjacent to Bruksgylet is a weir as well as the remains of a mill.

I quickly passed through the popular holiday area and headed north along the banks of Långasjön, it was an enjoyable walk with pleasant views across the lake.

Leaving Långasjön, I followed the trail through a variety of forest along foot trails and forestry tracks, ultimately arriving at Åkeholm, where I had started from on the previous trip, not wanting to wait the 4 hours for the one bus a day, I followed the Laxaleden south along the western bank of the Mörrumsån to Svängsta, from there a twice hourly bus service runs to Karlshamn and then train home.

It had been a long but enjoyable trip.

I was very pleased with the performance of my modified Aarn Mountain Magic 55 (using smaller balance pockets converted into a 40l pack) the Rab Demand Pull on (which kept my dry and cool) and the Grace Solo Tarp combined with the BPL Vapor bivy worked perfectly as expected.

Blekingeleden: Åkeholm to Östafors the story

You know you are in a remote location when there are two buses a day, one at 7 am and one at 4:30 pm, such is the case with travelling to Åkeholm. I alighted from the bus along with the only other passenger in a 60 seater bus. The lady walked across to her car, I just walked knowing that the campsite for the night was about a km away. It was a beautiful warm night though I knew there was some rain predicted for the next two days. arriving at the shelter site I chose a place a little distance away from the shelter with a view of the the rapidly flowing Mörrumsån, it seemed like an ideal place for a Tenkara, maybe next time. I set about putting the the DuoMid up, getting the stove going and generally settling in for the night.


After a pleasant and quiet evening only punctuated by the sound of the rapidly flowing river I retired to my solo inner net within the duomid.

I woke up the next morning and looked outside to be greeted by a man asking me where was it legal to fish? I don't know was my reply and then he said maybe those people will know, I looked around to see a leanto tent with 5 people inside as well as 3 vehicles (all danish) and on closer inspection 5 people asleep in the shelter and about 80 full cans of beer stacked next to the shelter. Their canoes were still sitting on the trailer, but to be fair I never heard them at all that night, the next night could be a another story.

I set about having a leisurely breakfast, followed by packing up and headed off with most of the canoeists still sound asleep. As I followed the trail along the river it became evident that it was a popular fly fishing area with several cars and fisherman, the season goes from March 1 to September and you are allowed to catch only 2 salmon a day ( I would be happy with one).

As I turned a corner I noticed two large birds, it took me a moment to realise they were most likely a pair of storks, once they had seen me they gracefully flew away, a wonderful site ( a first for me).

After the sighting of the storks I continued wandering along the roads and trails to Kåringahejans naturreservat, where once again the Mörrumsån flowed powerfully through a gorge before opening out into flatter country, the trail finally met up with an old railway line, now a cycle path which took me across the river and from there it would be a climb away from this wonderful river.


I followed the trail through the forest before coming to Röshult with the remnants of many old buildings along with the blacksmiths oven, it was about this time that I began to notice that it was getting gloomier.


Soon after I crossed a main road with a bus stop nearby (always useful to know) before heading to Bredasjön, and lunch, originally I had planned to camp there but the wind was blowing of the ice on the lake and campsites were non existent along with no flowing water so I decided to continue for another 12 km to Slagesnäs.



After lunch it became increasingly gloomy and I knew I was going to get wet when there was a loud clap of thunder followed by a down pour of rain. The downpour continued for about 4 hours with the wind increasing and the wind blown rain finding every nook and cranny of my gear. It was two hours before I reached the shelter for the night and at that time the lake was about 2 metres from the shelter, I decided the shelter was the best option for the night and I set about the usual camp chores as the rain continued to pound down on the roof, with the occasional branch being blown down as well. My waterproof gear Haglöfs Oz Pullover and Paramo Velez Adventure Trousers were okay but in both cases there was some leakage, I will write about that later. However, I was using a borrowed Aarn Natural Balance Pack with a waterproof liner and not one thing inside the pack was a damp, you can visualise a smile here. However, I did wonder how the canoeists fared, no doubt getting wet was not an issue but I could not see the leanto tent lasting long, I guess I will never know.


I awoke the next morning to find the water lapping at the sides of the shelter, it had risen about 5 cm over night which with a lake about 1 km in length and half a km wide indicates there was a lot of water flowing into the still frozen lake.



After packing and heading off I realised that the trail was to follow the outlet of the lake and then I begun to wonder if I was going to able to get through the narrow flooded valley.

The trail in the most part did stay just above the flood line as it headed south, there was a couple of bridges which were used to cross the fast flowing river and I was very appreciative of the work done by volunteers and kommunes to maintain and build such bridges, without which it would have been very difficult to get to the other end of the valley in such conditions.

Climbing out the valley the trail takes you through open forest as well as crossing a railway line before arriving at the northern end of Halen, a large lake on the western side of Olofström. The trail skirts the Western flank of Olofström before passing through a caravan park and then returning to the forest. I did wonder if ice axes were advised when using the diving board during winter.



Further along the lake there is a large rocky outcrop overlooking the lake as well as a day picnic shelter and a shelter, it was evident that this area was very popular in warmer weather but for now I had the place to my self.

After a climb and a descent as the rain begun to fall I reached the southern end of Halen, it too showed signs of being well used but I was able to find a spot overlooking the lake and watched the sun disappear over the horizon and the changing shades of blue on the ice as nighttime took control.





The following morning was to be a short day much of which was over familiar ground of the Kust to Kustleden, however, there was surprise left in store a hazy view of Halen from a cleared hill as I climbed away from the campsite.



As I approached the end of the trail I passed what could be best described as two black boxes facing each other across the trail, I can only assume they were some form of counter, interesting.



The final section led me across the bridge over flood swollen Holjeån river, reminding me once again of the importance of the work done by many people to allow us to walk the hills.

Blekingeleden Åkeholm to Östafors

The trip could be better described as a wet weather gear testing trip, a couple of photos for your entertainment.






More to follow

Torekov gear testing

Like Hendrik, I had the chance to get away for a quick over night trip. The focus of the trip was very much on testing some gear for up coming longer trips. I chose the location of my last visit the Bjärehalvön Penisula to explore and with temps around negative 10 at night it would be a good test of the clothing and sleeping gear. However, I was more interested in using the MLD Trailstar for its first trip along with the Aarn Marathon Magic 33.

After alighting from the bus I headed through the quiet streets of Torekov, these streets would normally be very busy in summer but at 10 am on a cold friday morning it was quiet. I sat for a while looking out to sea and watching a large Coast Guard vessel pass between the mainland and Hallands Väderö (in Swedish). It was then south along the coast with a calm sea to right, the sun in my face and the ground covered in snow or frozen water. The ice patches were thick and slippery and care was required with every step, however, I was soon warming up in the sunshine regretting not having packed either sun glasses or a peak caped.

A short stop allowed me to take a look at the view and made me realise how beautiful the coast was in the winter sunshine.


The remainder of the day passed uneventfully with my mind on the evening campsite and beginning to wonder how far below the surface would the ground be frozen, would I be able to get a peg in the ground, why did I not pack some Ti nails, would the water pump be working .... As I walked it was also obvious that very few people were out, even the dog walkers were noticeable for the absence.

I arrived at camp and quickly grabbed a 9” Easton alloy stake and started walking around pushing it into the ground, some spots were rock hard and others were less so, finding a spot on the east side of the trees to get the early morning sun and I set up the trail star, it was an easy task and though it required some adjustment I was pleased with the speed of the set up and reflected upon how in wet weather it would be easy to get some shelter quickly.


Having set up camp layed out my bivy and mattress, I spent some time just looking out to sea and enjoying the last of the afternoon sunshine.



A wander around the area soon found enough firewood for the stove and as the sun began to set I started a fire in the caldera inferno to cook dinner.



By the time dinner was finished, the sun was setting behind Kullaberg Naturreservet and the air was cooling. I wandered around for a while enjoying the peace, only punctuated by the bird song from Inre Gryteskär. I headed to bed and was soon asleep, as the night wore on even with a 1/4" Gossamer Gear Thinlight under my neo air there was some sense of coolness but I was never cold and slept till about 7:30 before the sun begun to brighten an already bright Trailstar, I love the yellow colour.

After breakfast in bed I set about packing up and after a further hours walk I was at the bus stop and 4 hours later at home.

It had been a very pleasant and relaxing walk and whilst it was old ground the scenery and the relaxing environment ensured a pleasant trip and one that I will happily do again.


Gear:
As has been stated by other authors, the MLD Trailstar is a great shelter, it is spacious, easy to erect, packs small, and has ample space to move around inside as well as offering a variety of pitches. For this trip I used a ID eVent Overbag wth the Therma rest neoair inside and the Gossamer Gear Thinlight (1/4" inch mat) underneath on a thin silnylon ground sheet. In warmer weather I probably use a BPL Vapor bivy or Six Moon Designs Meteor bivy for insect protection as well as a draft stopper.

I used a BPL 550 pot partnered with a Ti Tri Caldera Compact Inferno built for the MLD 850.

The pack as mentioned previously was the Aarn Marathon Magic 33 litre pack, I will provide a more detailed report of this pack in a later blog, however, I was very happy with it and enjoyed the experience of carrying the pack.