Day Three: Skøgadalen to Olavsbu

I awoke to another gray day, and I was soooo comfortable on my Neo Air I was in no hurry to get out of bed, the result being a 10 am start. Thinking that it would be an easy day with a stroll up the valley, turn left and the head to the DNT hut at Olavsbu to find a campsite, how wrong I was. The climb begun following the trail which made for easy going and as I approached the 1400 m mark the ice covered lakes came into view. As well both sides of the valley were now covered in large snow patches which made for slow going through the well trodden soft snow. So much for an easy day. The further I climbed the snow coverage increased whilst towering above me to the East stood Mjølkedalstinden (2138m) whose western and eastern flanks of I was circumnavigating. Once into Mjølkedalen the lakes were covered in layers of thick ice with evidence of the ice beginning to break up providing a blue tinge of colour to the otherwise translucent ice. The climb continues and whilst not steep the snow makes for slow and sometimes slippery movement with the occasional “post holing” to further slow progress, I was now glad of my lighter weight pack and I wondered how some hikers manage in these conditions. I was soon to find out as I met 3 Norwegians and a dog coming down from the saddle, they had been out for almost 3 weeks and one commented “they had seen a lot of snow” The golden retriever had his own small pack on and seemed very happy stepping from stone to stone down the hill. Finally the trail reached the junction with the trail connecting the DNT huts of Olavsbu and Fondsbu. Fondsbu is located on an access road and often walkers drive to there pay the 50 NOK a day to park and head inland. Fondsbu is also served by a ferry service along Bygdin. From the saddle the trail then climbs further to the 1600m mark through snow softening in the afternoon sunshine. Yes the clouds had broken a bit and the sun was decidedly warm especially when out of the cool light breeze blowing. As I ascended to the highest point I passed an elderly Norwegian couple happily skipping down the hill with Ice Axes, the wife commented on my Pacer Poles stating that she could never use poles, and preferred the ice axe. The descent from this point enabled me to take in the views to east and north the snow covered peaks and the ice covered lakes, I was also fascinated by the winter snow pole routes marked on the map going across the middle of the lakes implying just how could it was up here in winter. Soon the trail to Gjendebu was passed and I headed north through more snow around the eastern flank of Mjølkedalstinden. Climbing up through another saddle before the steep descent down into the valley through more deep snow ensured that by the time I arrived at Olavsbu DNT shelter I needed little convincing that a soft bed, a pillow, hot water … was a better proposition than a tent. The benefit of Olavsbu shelter is that it is only accessible by foot and is a self catering hut, you can either bring your food or purchase what is available in the cupboards. The warden who was staying at the hut whilst I was there was on a 3 week holiday and for this period of time she managed the hut as well as having time to go out for day walks. The night I stayed at the hut there were 2 young Norwegian guys (camping nearby) and a couple, the hut can sleep up to 48 persons, but for tonight I had my own room. There is no running water (it is collected from the stream) and the hot water is heated on a stove. All in all a pleasant and relaxing night convincing me that the DNT huts have a useful role to play, though they will also attract greater crowds.

Day Two: Falkeberget to Skøgadalen

I awoke to the sound of light rain on the tent and a little breeze so after breakfast in bed I packed up and stuck my head out the tent to look at a misty view of the surrounding mountains, extracting myself from the comfort of the tent I soon packed the tent and was off down the Utledelen which would ultimately take me to the DNT hytte of Skogadalsbøen which is also the lowest altitude (831 m) on this hike having started at 1270 m the previous day. The descent which was steep at times through the gorge provided views of the mist shrouded peaks to the south as well as the many snow drifts on the sheltered northern sides of the mountains. The cacophony of sound from the glacier fed river roaring through the gorge ensured that all other sounds were inaudible.

Waterfalls are everywhere to be seen on the sides of the mountains as well as large waterfalls in the valleys such as the one in Utledelen, crossing these fast flowing rivers can provide for an interesting challenge, in some cases there is a bridge but often it is stepping stones which at this time of the year may be covered by fast flowing water up to 20 cm in depth. Whilst my Salomon Fastpacker boots were goretex lined it did not take long before my feet had that damp experience every time I crossed the stream, though they did not fill with water thanks to my Integral Designs gaiters. It was along this section of trail I met my first hikers for the day, a mother and teenage daughter, with day packs heading to Krossbu, having spent the night at Skogadalsbøen. Which is the normal trend the hikers stay in the DNT huts which are either catered, self catered or completely uncatered. Huts normally have a warden and whilst some are permanent wardens others have a 2 or 3 weeks at the hut, which may form part of their summer vacation. Further along the track as I passed some old stone shelters being used by the sheep to protect them from the wind I met a second couple heading north to Krossbu. The trail met up with the trail from Turtagrø (accessible from the same bus as the one I used) which includes a side trail to the twin peaks of Fannaråken and the highest DNT shelter of 2068 m. By now I had descended to an elevation of 800 m and as a result I had entered a forest of sorts with its beech trees and bushes. Crossing the Utla River on bridge I climbed to the DNT hut of Skogadalsbøen and lunch. Whilst eating my lunch on one of the picnic tables the warden wandered over. Now according to Connie Roos “The hut is guarded by a large black Newfoundland dog”. However, all I saw was a very young puppy. The warden looked at my Hagloffs Lim 45 and asked if I was staying the night I said “no” his reason for asking was the size of my pack seemed too small for camping. I then explained that all my gear was compact and thus I used a smaller pack. In fact as I hiked through Jotunheimen many of the day packs I saw were bigger than my pack, albeit they may have weighed less (the max weight of mine was 13.5 kg on the scales at Skogadalsbøen). This was another conversation that was often repeated over the coming days. Having had lunch and spoken with 5 Swedish guys who were looking fitter, leaner and more energetic than I, I headed off up Skogadalen looking for a campsite at around 1300 metres which meant a walk of about 8 kms, up the valley. The trail followed the Skogadøla river and passed through some wonderful beech forest with flowers blooming, it was a very pleasant change from the sparse rock and grass of the high country. It was at this time that the sun sort of came out so it made for a pleasant, warm windless walk with views back towards the high peaks to the west. By 6 pm I had found a campsite on the banks of the Skogadøla river. Having erected the tent I sat down outside wondering whether with the increasing grey cloud I would get to have dinner before it rained. After having eaten dinner and having prepared my green tea, the Swedish group walked past they were looking for a campsite and continued on (I never saw them again, though I saw their prints in the snow. Yes the rain did come and the tent became my refuge again. By now I had developed a theory that at around 4 pm there would be a few drops of rain and around 7:30 pm the rain would increase, this theory was based on 2 days data which is more than some politicians would need.

Day One: Krossbu to Falkeberget

I alighted from the train at Otta, this was my third visit to Otta so for me it was familiar territory. Interestingly whilst sorting my gear the train to Oslo arrived and I noticed 5 hikers one of whom was carrying a Golite rucksack, I immediately thought of the Armchair Adventurer who was returning from a trip to Rondane National Park, details of which can be found on his blog. I had time for lunch and a little stroll around Otta before the bus to Sogndal arrived. It is a little over 2 hours bus trip to Krossbu, one of the many stops on the western side of Jotunheimen. Whilst on the bus I met two Norwegian hikers of a similar age to me who were heading out for three weeks and their plan was to walk from Jotunheimen to the Swedish Border which sounded a fascinating trip. However, there was some concern on their part as to whether I should be out hiking by myself, a theme which was repeated several times over the coming days, though they did recognise that if I was staying to the trails then the risks were lessened and as I advised each day I would be passing a DNT shelter, if I had a problem. It was 5:30 pm before I started walking with my Montane Lightspeed on to block the wind. The sun was shining through broken cloud and whilst the forecast was for rain, I was optimistic that I may at least get a dry first day. So I set off along the DNT marked trail heading south along the Bøvre valley towards a saddle to the west of Falkeberget, it was in the vicinity of the saddle that I proposed to camp for the night. The walk along the plain was pleasant with a gradual climb, whilst out to the east I could see Smørstabbrean the first of many glaciers that while receding are still evident in Jotunheimen. As I climbed I also begun to recognise how light it was and camping late in the evening was of no real concern. Later I discovered that it never really gets dark in Jotunheimen at this time of the year. It was an uneventful climb though I was a little surprised when i found that I was walking through well trodden snow drifts which had softened in the afternoon sun, something that I had not expected when I left Copenhagen. During this section of the walk I did wonder however, whether painting ceilings of an apartment was good training, my decision was it was good training for using Pacer Poles, but I am less certain about my legs.
I passed through the saddle and was immediately stunned by the view of the twin peaks of Fannaråken to the west and the high peaks to the south east, it certainly brought a smile to my face after a long trip to get here. I also noticed the increasingly grey clouds and begun to hope that I could get the tent up and have dinner before it rained. Sadly, no, as I commenced to put the tent up on a relatively flat site below the saddle the light rain started and it was about this time the the fiddle factors of the Laser Competition began to annoy me, or was it because I was tired? With the tent set up it was time for dinner and my first Real Turmat for the trip cooked in the vestibule of the tent. It had been a long two days to get here and I went to sleep listening to the rain on the tent.

The ups and downs of Jotunheimen

Jotunheimen has 275 peaks over 2000 metres and contains the highest peak in Norway Galdhøpiggen at 2469 metres and the second highest is Glittertinden at 2465 metres, however, with its snow and ice cover Glittertinden can be higher than Galdhøpiggen. The highest I climbed on the last trip was close to 1600 metres and the peaks towered around me, an impressive site even when they were shrouded in cloud. Here is an Elevation graph of the trip with the key features marked. Accompanying this I have included a Map of my trip which will help as I compile the day to day record.

Jotunheimen, mountains in the snow.

Well I am back with many photos and tales to tell, as well as many blogs to read. It was a great trip, a little grey at times with not too much rain, there was plenty of walking in the snow along with boulder hopping and above all else spectacular scenery.

Trip summary: Six days, Distance covered 80 km, Total Ascent 3753 m.

In the coming days there will be a trip report and comments on gear, but for now it is sorting through the many photos.

Jotunheimen here I come

House painting done, leave pass granted. An early start in the morning will have me in Lillehammer in the afternoon but with the vagaries of Public Transport it will not be until late following day that I will actually be walking. By then the rain may have turned to showers but the forecast is wet for the week. The wet conditions will undoubtedly test my Litespeed jacket and Haglöfs Oz pullover. My shelter will be the Laser Comp and I will be using my Brunton Crux gas stove combined with my trusty MSR titan Kettle. All my gear fits nicely inside the Haglöfs Lim 45 (a pack sold in Denmark as a large day pack) with a total weight of 13.5 kg for the 7 day trip. Reports on gear and the trip will follow.

Jotunheimen Plans

My basic plan is to start in Krossbu, in the west, and walk to Gjendesheim, in the east. This plan evolved from the availability of bus services at either end and their timing in relation to NSB trains and flights between Copenhagen and Oslo.

The plan is an open one as there are a number of options of hiking from Krossbu to Gjendesheim, I do know that I am not doing any glacier walks this time, nor am I climbing the highest peak in Norway, Galdhøpiggen.

My preferred route commences at Krossbu, visits Skogadalsbøen , Olavsbu, Spiterstulen, Glitterheim, Gjendesheim . However, an alternative route will take me past Gjendebu and Memurubu. But note that I will be carrying and using my Laser Competition every night.

Helping me in my planning has been 2 books
Cicerone Press: Walking in Norway by Connie Roos
Rother Walking Guide: Norway South Bernhard Pollmann

Maps, there is only one choice in Norway which is Turkart, I purchased my Jotunheimen Vest and Aust maps at the Otta Railway Station, if you are into last minute planning otherwise I am sure they can be purchased wherever you may be.

What I am carrying will be the subject of a later post.