Søndersø

For the first time since Jotunheimen I put on my walking boots and went for a walk around one of the local lakes, Søndersø. The trail around the lake is approximately 5.4 km in length and is bordered by the township of Værløse, the now closed military airstrip as well as open farmland and is a popular jogging, walking and cycling path though during week days it is a little quieter.

The trail while mostly gravel does offer some forested sections to walk through, as well as the possibility to see Deer, and listen to the sounds of many different aquatic birds along with pleasant sounds of the Nightingale. The lake is popular fishing spot with many boats moored in an inlet on the lake. It was great to be able to get out for a walk in preparation for an upcoming walk or 2 along the west coast of Jutland.

Sigg Water bottles

Now most of us at one stage or another have owned a Sigg water bottle, great bottles and virtually indestructible. Well recently I was visiting family in Australia and was browsing through a kitchen shop (yes I love kitchen shops almost as much as I love outdoors shops) and I came across a collection of Sigg Bottles. But what caught my attention was the red wide mouth sigg bottle. There was no question it had to be bought. Interestingly the wide mouth top is a similar size to the Nalgene tops, but the threads are different, also the bottle has a standard sigg opening, so, the bottle is easy to fill and easy to drink out of.

It weighs about 170 grams which is about the same as a Nalgene bottle. I am not sure how readily available they are but if you are into sigg bottles they are worth a look.

Coastal walking

Having ventured into the mountains my attention has now turned to the coasts, something which Denmark and Sweden have plenty of. Kit selection for such trips differs considerably from a trip to the mountains and from past experience condensation on tarps and eVent bivies can become more of an issue. Other issues include wind, watching lightning strikes out to sea, lack of shelter in wind driven rain, lack of shelter in blazing sunshine (less of an issue in Denmark) but the rewards includes watching migratory birds, the sound of the waves hitting the shore as well as amazing sunrises and sunsets.

Over the next couple of months I intend to visit a number of coastal regions in Denmark and Sweden with my primary shelter being a bivy and a tarp, the first such trip will either be North West of Copenhagen or along the Österlenleden in Sweden.

Jotunheimen Gear

Gear selection for a trip is based on many factors such as weight, fit, appropriateness, colour, whether we look good in it as we hike as well as many other factors.

The list of gear I used for this trip is given below, following are some comments on the gear used.



The "big three" used were Terra Nova Laser Competition tent, Haglöfs LIM 45 pack and Nunatak Arc Alpinist Quilt.

Terra Nova Laser Competition: A lot has been written about the tent and blogs such Blogpackinglight and backpackingbongos will provide a lot of information. My opinions of the tent are mixed, the major benefit of the tent is that it is light and can be packed small if the poles from the inner are removed. The challenges are that it can be fiddly to set up if the ground is uneven, removing the poles to make packing easier creates more hassles when setting it up. I had no problems with the tent flapping in the wind this trip, but others have reported this. I am not tall standing at about 178 cm, but using a Neo Air in the tent (with a Montbell Pillow) means that my head is close to the tent inner when laying down which could be a little claustrophobic for some. Having said that it is a good tent for its weight provides good protection from the elements.

Haglöfs LIM 45, like Holdfast I took an untried pack on this trip though I had read about the pack on PTC's site and along with actually being able to try it in a shop I decided that it would work for this trip. (Interestingly the shop, in Copenhagen, sold this pack as a large day pack) The pack is made of what appears to be light materials, though after 6 days of hiking and a few scrapes here and there the pack showed little signs of wear. The pack has an interesting design with the shoulder straps connected to the base of the pack and the frame has an interesting shape which could be best described as an inverted U shape with a narrowing around the lower back as shown here.



The adjustment for the back length comes from moving the back pad in relation to the shoulder straps using velcro. I found this system to work quite well and once set it did not move. The hip belt is a reverse pull similar to Osprey, a system I like and I found the hip belt to work quite well and the adjustments allowed the weight to be shared between the shoulders and the hips, The pack fully loaded weighed 13.5 kg, which in my view is probably about its limit, though at no time did I find it uncomfortable the shoulders, back or hips. I am a fan of roll top closures and the Haglöfs pack has perhaps the best I have used, it has a 2 cm wide strip of stiff material on each side and when folded twice and cinched down form a very secure closure, this was an aspect of the pack I really liked. Another aspect of the pack that suits my style of hiking is the side pockets and front pocket which are easily accessible and will hold a lot of gear. The front pocket I used for waterproofs, lunch etc. whilst one side pocket carried tent poles and tent groundsheet the other side pocket carried a small amount of water in a platypus and was easily accessible without removing the pack. My two niggles about the pack are there were times that I felt the straps were slipping when they were damp and I noticed some stitching on the roll top lid had come away and whilst repairable in the field ideally should not happen. I have contacted Haglöfs about this.

In summary this is a pack I will continue to use for trips up to 5 days as I like the way it carries and the usability of the pack.


Nunatak Alpinist Quilt. My down quilt is my go to quilt and I use it on almost all trips, However, with its 340 gms of down I found it a little warm when combined with a Neo Air and the tent, got me to thinking that when considering sleep systems one should consider the shelter along with mattress and sleeping bag. In my view in a tent (such as the Laser Comp) a bag with less down may work depending on the expected night time temps, clearly when planning a trip the sleep system should be considered as a system and not just individually. I am now considering other down sleeping bags, which will work with as part of a sleep system depending on the anticipated temperatures.

Wet weather gear: I carried a Montane Lite-Speed jacket, Montane Featherlite Pants and Haglöfs Oz pullover. And to be honest there was very little rain to test the gear. However, after reading Chris Townsends BPL (You will need to be a member) article on wet weather gear, there were times on the trip where I wore a silkbody base layer combined with the Lite-Speed and the OZ pullover on the outside. I was very impressed, the arrangement kept me comfortable, but not hot. This is an arrangement I want to explore more as it means that I carry less weight in my pack if I am not wearing them.

Salomon Fastpackers: I have completed over 100 kms in these boots, 70 km of which were in Jotunheimen. My experience with the boots was very positive especially given the snowy conditions early in the trip. In summary I find these boots have good grip in loose gravel as well as on dry rocks, though the grip is reduced on wet rack. In extended downhill sections it may be that toe volume is compromised. There were times where I felt the more robust Alan Sloman's slippers may have been appropriate. All in all my hiking footwear for the future will be selected from Salomon XA Pro 3D Ultra, Fastpackers or Quest ... depending on the expected environment.

There was no gear that I would not take on the next trip, though I may consider placing the DSLR in my pack for trips where the scenery warrants it.

Day Six: Memurudalen to Gjendesheim

Today was to be the ultimate day of the trip, in many respects, it was to be the last day of hiking and incorporated a walk along the famous and popular Besseggen Ridge.
Whether you start at Memurubu or Gjendesheim, the walk requires a climb starting at 984 metres to a maximum height of 1722 metres. However there is not just one big climb, there is a saddle which sits at about 1350 metres. The ridge is a popular day walk connecting the two hotels and the option to either walk along the foreshore of the lake to make it a circuit walk or catch a ferry further encourages walkers to walk the ridge. As a consequence it is suggested that this 17 km walk is completed by over 40 000 walkers a year. Whether they be day walkers or those with larger packs, that is quite an achievement in my view as I will endeavor to explain.
I begun the climb up from Memrubu, and was soon overtaken by two day walkers with very small packs on this was to be a recurring them all day. I stopped to have a look around a little further up and noted that the ferry had berthed at Memerubu and people were getting off and immediately heading towards the start of the climb.
Later I would be passed by many different age groups as they rushed to climb the first hill. Whilst I happily hiked my own hike. As I climbed the views along the lake as well as the surrounding mountains continued to impress me. There were countless streams to cross so there was no need to carry water, I did notice some hikers with 1 and 2 litre bottles full of water. The day like the previous ones, remained overcast but the cloud was thinning and it was certainly the best day of the trip to be up high.

I stopped at the first high point near a small lake and took the time to admire the view as did many others. After passing the small tarn Bjørnbøltjonne.

The trail climbed a little further before starting its descent to the saddle along side of Bessvatnet. With very little breeze to disturb the water the reflection of Bessfjellet provided a wonderful back drop for a rest prior to the climb up the Besseggen.

On one side of the Bessvatnet is located at 1373 m. above sea level whilst on the opposite side Gjende is at 984 m above sea level, the 400 metre difference is separated by less than half a kilometre width of ridge. Very impressive.
Well after pondering the climb in front of me, putting my pacer poles on my pack and as I had no other excuse I started the 300 metre(in less than a kilometre) climb. It was slow and steady progress with most climbers making the same speed whether they had a day pack or a larger one. On perhaps the steepest section I waited for a couple of people to descend past one tricky section, only to be told there was more coming. Sure enough down came another Japanese hiking group all with large smiles, they were having fun! As I was. There are parts where it is definitely one way traffic and so with the popularity of the ridge you are often stopping waiting for the oncoming traffic, which is always good for a rest.
The climb continues to you reach a high point, where there were a number of groups stopped as well as some one selling cans of Pepsi for 40 Nkr (about 4 Pounds), they were doing good business.
Further along the trail the highest point at 1743 m. is reached. Whilst many walkers soon headed across Vestfjellet and down towards Gjendesheim I decided it was afternoon tea time and found a spot away from the trail and sat and admired the views.

It was fantastic and no photos can do it justice in my view such is the enormity of the landscape. With the satisfaction of the completing the climb there is the realization that it is all down hill now and it is still about 5 km to the end of the trip. I set off following the well marked trail gently down hill at first and then steeper stopping at a small stream for some water and enjoying the afternoon sunshine. It was much warmer in the valley and I dug out the Tilley to protect me from the sun. On a particularly steep section there is a chain to be used as hand hold I watched a young girl and her mother take considerable care in getting down this section.

By 5 pm I was at Gjendsheim it was warm in the valley and the reality of civilisation was all round me, I set off past the Ferry terminal to the state forest along the lake where camping is free, finding a nice spot, with lots of ants, but other wise okay. I grabbed my money and my clean clothes and headed for the showers. Returning to the tent, feeling much cleaner I set about cooking dinner and whilst eating dinner I was amazed by the light in the clouds out to the east. I thought that it was a perfect end to a wonderful trip.


The following day was spent travellling firstly catch the local bus from Gjendsheim to Otta, then train and plane home.

Day Five: Langvatnet to Memurudalen

I awoke to the sound of light rain on the tent and to mist shrouded mountains. Today was to be a much longer day so an earlier start was required. After having breakfast and with no more rain falling I looked out to see a still lake with the mountains reflected on the water, no hesitation and I was out of the tent camera in hand. By the time I had packed up the breeze had started and as a result the reflections were only memories.
The trail takes the hiker along side of Langvatnet before descending almost 300 metres to Storadalen past the large waterfall on Storåe. It was near the foot of the falls that I begun to recognize the return to society. Up until now I had seen very few hikers, especially given the popularity of the area, but passing 20 Japanese hikers heading in the opposite direction reminded me of the popularity of the area. Before long I left the main trail between Leirvassbu and Gjendebu and commenced the climb back up to the 1400 metre plateau of Memurutunga.


It was very obvious that this was a less traveled route and whilst it was grey and misty with enough breeze to ensure that my Lite-Speed was always worn. After the climb to the plateau the next 5 kilometers or so were spent crossing the undulating alpine environment with its collection of tarns, snow drifts, boulder strewn landscape.


While crossing the plateau I saw a small herd of reindeer, they were out of camera range and seemed to be happily resting on a snow drift. The views across the plateaus to the surrounding peaks were amazing and once I had reached the cliffs above Gjende I was in awe at the colour of the lake as well as the views both east and west, truly fantastic.


The trail I was following ultimately meets up with the more popular walking trail between Gjendebu and Memurubu (2 large hotel like huts in Jotunheimen. The junction is just above a 400 meter in less than a kilometre climb known as Bukkelægret. It was here much to my surprise I met an Australian with his 2 children accompanied by 2 Norwegian men. Interestingly he initially spoke to me in Norwegian and when my english response came back he switched to a very strong aussie accent, we chatted for a few minute before his group headed down the Bukkelægret while I headed across to Sjugurdtinden and the rapid descent into Memurdalen. The walk to Sjugurdtinden continued in the same pattern though I passed more hikers many of whom were carrying large overnight packs, there was also a tent on the side of Langtjønne and I suspect that this area is often used for camping out, something that I had considered but decided to camp lower down in the valley. I was also surprised by the number of hikers who I passed climbing up the Sjugurdtinden at 6 pm at night, there was still plenty of daylight and I have no doubt that they intended to camp out, for me though this was unusual.
The knee jerking descent into Memrubu followed by a short walk up the Memurudalen led me to a pleasant campsite near the fast flowing glacier fed Muru river. It was after 7 pm before I settled down to my dinner, it was also about the same time that the mosquitoes began to appear, fortunately not in large numbers.

Day Four: Olavsbu to Langvatnet

Staying in a hut ensured a good nights sleep as well as a slow start. When I looked out the window I noted that the ice and snow on the peaks glistened in the morning sunshine. Later in the day these peaks would again be shrouded with cloud.
Olavsbu lies in the Rauddalen at an altitude of about 1450 m, there is a wonderful panorama from the veranda with views of the lakes to the east and west as well as up to Mjølkedalstinden. There was plenty of snow in the valley though the warden said that it was melting fast. Olavsbu is also the junction for several different trails, including Gjendebu to the East, Fondsbu, Leirvassbu and Skogadalsbøen.
Many hikers pass through or stay here on their travels in Jotunheimen so I was lucky to have a quiet night there. I climbed steadily away from the hut on the trail to Leirvassbu to the saddle which is about 100 metres higher, the climb through the well trodden snow was straight forward with more boulder hopping near the top of the saddle. I took shelter from the wind behind a large rock and admired the views back towards the hut. I stood up and started forwards to be suddenly confronted by a 150 metre snow covered steep drop. Hmmm. I looked at the trails others had taken and my natural instinct was to sidle down the slope in the snow, in doing so I found my self slipping sideways in the soft wet snow. After some reconsideration I decided that walking straight down the face, digging the heels in as I went was the best option. So after a few minutes I was at the bottom looking up at the snow covered slope, thinking that I was glad I was coming down, going up would be more of a challenge in my view.

Once at the bottom the trail passed around the edge of another ice covered lake followed by more tramping through snow and boulder hopping. There was also the frequent crossing of flowing rivers which ensured that my boots which were dry when I left the hut were no longer so. Ultimately I met up with the trail between Leirvassbu and Gjendebu and with a view of the mountains and Langvatnet in the foreground it seemed like the ideal lunch spot. While I sat there contemplating life 3 groups of hikers walked past seemingly intent on getting to Gjendebu (and possibly the ferry) it made me wonder just how many hut to hut walkers really took any time to look at the surroundings. Probably quite a few but with the weather a little gray and the breeze a little strong there was less incentive to stop and admire the view. Heading in the other direction but about 100 metres up the hill and not on a trail at all a lone hiker with 2 dogs was heading towards Leirvassbu. I waived, he waived I went up to see if there was a more pleasant walking trail there, there wasn’t. Then I wondered was it the phantom backpacker from the TGO?
After lunch it did brighten up a little so I decided to take a wander up the hillside a little to the alpine grasses and I spent some time just admiring the flowers and herbs, it was noticeably warmer here and less windy.








Finally it was time to wander on, I had decided to find a campsite on the banks of Langvatnet, providing views across to Skarddalseggie as well as east and west along the lake. The site was only just off the path but I saw no one that evening, it was sheltered by a raised bank from the breeze blowing down the valley. Further away on the cliff overlooking the lake I was able to find a comfortable spot to set up the stove and cook dinner whilst looking out over the lake. I longed for some afternoon sunshine, but also recognised with warmth there could also be mosquitoes. It was a pleasant spot and certainly ensured for a relaxing evening.