Day Six: Memurudalen to Gjendesheim

Today was to be the ultimate day of the trip, in many respects, it was to be the last day of hiking and incorporated a walk along the famous and popular Besseggen Ridge.
Whether you start at Memurubu or Gjendesheim, the walk requires a climb starting at 984 metres to a maximum height of 1722 metres. However there is not just one big climb, there is a saddle which sits at about 1350 metres. The ridge is a popular day walk connecting the two hotels and the option to either walk along the foreshore of the lake to make it a circuit walk or catch a ferry further encourages walkers to walk the ridge. As a consequence it is suggested that this 17 km walk is completed by over 40 000 walkers a year. Whether they be day walkers or those with larger packs, that is quite an achievement in my view as I will endeavor to explain.
I begun the climb up from Memrubu, and was soon overtaken by two day walkers with very small packs on this was to be a recurring them all day. I stopped to have a look around a little further up and noted that the ferry had berthed at Memerubu and people were getting off and immediately heading towards the start of the climb.
Later I would be passed by many different age groups as they rushed to climb the first hill. Whilst I happily hiked my own hike. As I climbed the views along the lake as well as the surrounding mountains continued to impress me. There were countless streams to cross so there was no need to carry water, I did notice some hikers with 1 and 2 litre bottles full of water. The day like the previous ones, remained overcast but the cloud was thinning and it was certainly the best day of the trip to be up high.

I stopped at the first high point near a small lake and took the time to admire the view as did many others. After passing the small tarn Bjørnbøltjonne.

The trail climbed a little further before starting its descent to the saddle along side of Bessvatnet. With very little breeze to disturb the water the reflection of Bessfjellet provided a wonderful back drop for a rest prior to the climb up the Besseggen.

On one side of the Bessvatnet is located at 1373 m. above sea level whilst on the opposite side Gjende is at 984 m above sea level, the 400 metre difference is separated by less than half a kilometre width of ridge. Very impressive.
Well after pondering the climb in front of me, putting my pacer poles on my pack and as I had no other excuse I started the 300 metre(in less than a kilometre) climb. It was slow and steady progress with most climbers making the same speed whether they had a day pack or a larger one. On perhaps the steepest section I waited for a couple of people to descend past one tricky section, only to be told there was more coming. Sure enough down came another Japanese hiking group all with large smiles, they were having fun! As I was. There are parts where it is definitely one way traffic and so with the popularity of the ridge you are often stopping waiting for the oncoming traffic, which is always good for a rest.
The climb continues to you reach a high point, where there were a number of groups stopped as well as some one selling cans of Pepsi for 40 Nkr (about 4 Pounds), they were doing good business.
Further along the trail the highest point at 1743 m. is reached. Whilst many walkers soon headed across Vestfjellet and down towards Gjendesheim I decided it was afternoon tea time and found a spot away from the trail and sat and admired the views.

It was fantastic and no photos can do it justice in my view such is the enormity of the landscape. With the satisfaction of the completing the climb there is the realization that it is all down hill now and it is still about 5 km to the end of the trip. I set off following the well marked trail gently down hill at first and then steeper stopping at a small stream for some water and enjoying the afternoon sunshine. It was much warmer in the valley and I dug out the Tilley to protect me from the sun. On a particularly steep section there is a chain to be used as hand hold I watched a young girl and her mother take considerable care in getting down this section.

By 5 pm I was at Gjendsheim it was warm in the valley and the reality of civilisation was all round me, I set off past the Ferry terminal to the state forest along the lake where camping is free, finding a nice spot, with lots of ants, but other wise okay. I grabbed my money and my clean clothes and headed for the showers. Returning to the tent, feeling much cleaner I set about cooking dinner and whilst eating dinner I was amazed by the light in the clouds out to the east. I thought that it was a perfect end to a wonderful trip.


The following day was spent travellling firstly catch the local bus from Gjendsheim to Otta, then train and plane home.

Day Five: Langvatnet to Memurudalen

I awoke to the sound of light rain on the tent and to mist shrouded mountains. Today was to be a much longer day so an earlier start was required. After having breakfast and with no more rain falling I looked out to see a still lake with the mountains reflected on the water, no hesitation and I was out of the tent camera in hand. By the time I had packed up the breeze had started and as a result the reflections were only memories.
The trail takes the hiker along side of Langvatnet before descending almost 300 metres to Storadalen past the large waterfall on Storåe. It was near the foot of the falls that I begun to recognize the return to society. Up until now I had seen very few hikers, especially given the popularity of the area, but passing 20 Japanese hikers heading in the opposite direction reminded me of the popularity of the area. Before long I left the main trail between Leirvassbu and Gjendebu and commenced the climb back up to the 1400 metre plateau of Memurutunga.


It was very obvious that this was a less traveled route and whilst it was grey and misty with enough breeze to ensure that my Lite-Speed was always worn. After the climb to the plateau the next 5 kilometers or so were spent crossing the undulating alpine environment with its collection of tarns, snow drifts, boulder strewn landscape.


While crossing the plateau I saw a small herd of reindeer, they were out of camera range and seemed to be happily resting on a snow drift. The views across the plateaus to the surrounding peaks were amazing and once I had reached the cliffs above Gjende I was in awe at the colour of the lake as well as the views both east and west, truly fantastic.


The trail I was following ultimately meets up with the more popular walking trail between Gjendebu and Memurubu (2 large hotel like huts in Jotunheimen. The junction is just above a 400 meter in less than a kilometre climb known as Bukkelægret. It was here much to my surprise I met an Australian with his 2 children accompanied by 2 Norwegian men. Interestingly he initially spoke to me in Norwegian and when my english response came back he switched to a very strong aussie accent, we chatted for a few minute before his group headed down the Bukkelægret while I headed across to Sjugurdtinden and the rapid descent into Memurdalen. The walk to Sjugurdtinden continued in the same pattern though I passed more hikers many of whom were carrying large overnight packs, there was also a tent on the side of Langtjønne and I suspect that this area is often used for camping out, something that I had considered but decided to camp lower down in the valley. I was also surprised by the number of hikers who I passed climbing up the Sjugurdtinden at 6 pm at night, there was still plenty of daylight and I have no doubt that they intended to camp out, for me though this was unusual.
The knee jerking descent into Memrubu followed by a short walk up the Memurudalen led me to a pleasant campsite near the fast flowing glacier fed Muru river. It was after 7 pm before I settled down to my dinner, it was also about the same time that the mosquitoes began to appear, fortunately not in large numbers.

Day Four: Olavsbu to Langvatnet

Staying in a hut ensured a good nights sleep as well as a slow start. When I looked out the window I noted that the ice and snow on the peaks glistened in the morning sunshine. Later in the day these peaks would again be shrouded with cloud.
Olavsbu lies in the Rauddalen at an altitude of about 1450 m, there is a wonderful panorama from the veranda with views of the lakes to the east and west as well as up to Mjølkedalstinden. There was plenty of snow in the valley though the warden said that it was melting fast. Olavsbu is also the junction for several different trails, including Gjendebu to the East, Fondsbu, Leirvassbu and Skogadalsbøen.
Many hikers pass through or stay here on their travels in Jotunheimen so I was lucky to have a quiet night there. I climbed steadily away from the hut on the trail to Leirvassbu to the saddle which is about 100 metres higher, the climb through the well trodden snow was straight forward with more boulder hopping near the top of the saddle. I took shelter from the wind behind a large rock and admired the views back towards the hut. I stood up and started forwards to be suddenly confronted by a 150 metre snow covered steep drop. Hmmm. I looked at the trails others had taken and my natural instinct was to sidle down the slope in the snow, in doing so I found my self slipping sideways in the soft wet snow. After some reconsideration I decided that walking straight down the face, digging the heels in as I went was the best option. So after a few minutes I was at the bottom looking up at the snow covered slope, thinking that I was glad I was coming down, going up would be more of a challenge in my view.

Once at the bottom the trail passed around the edge of another ice covered lake followed by more tramping through snow and boulder hopping. There was also the frequent crossing of flowing rivers which ensured that my boots which were dry when I left the hut were no longer so. Ultimately I met up with the trail between Leirvassbu and Gjendebu and with a view of the mountains and Langvatnet in the foreground it seemed like the ideal lunch spot. While I sat there contemplating life 3 groups of hikers walked past seemingly intent on getting to Gjendebu (and possibly the ferry) it made me wonder just how many hut to hut walkers really took any time to look at the surroundings. Probably quite a few but with the weather a little gray and the breeze a little strong there was less incentive to stop and admire the view. Heading in the other direction but about 100 metres up the hill and not on a trail at all a lone hiker with 2 dogs was heading towards Leirvassbu. I waived, he waived I went up to see if there was a more pleasant walking trail there, there wasn’t. Then I wondered was it the phantom backpacker from the TGO?
After lunch it did brighten up a little so I decided to take a wander up the hillside a little to the alpine grasses and I spent some time just admiring the flowers and herbs, it was noticeably warmer here and less windy.








Finally it was time to wander on, I had decided to find a campsite on the banks of Langvatnet, providing views across to Skarddalseggie as well as east and west along the lake. The site was only just off the path but I saw no one that evening, it was sheltered by a raised bank from the breeze blowing down the valley. Further away on the cliff overlooking the lake I was able to find a comfortable spot to set up the stove and cook dinner whilst looking out over the lake. I longed for some afternoon sunshine, but also recognised with warmth there could also be mosquitoes. It was a pleasant spot and certainly ensured for a relaxing evening.

Day Three: Skøgadalen to Olavsbu

I awoke to another gray day, and I was soooo comfortable on my Neo Air I was in no hurry to get out of bed, the result being a 10 am start. Thinking that it would be an easy day with a stroll up the valley, turn left and the head to the DNT hut at Olavsbu to find a campsite, how wrong I was. The climb begun following the trail which made for easy going and as I approached the 1400 m mark the ice covered lakes came into view. As well both sides of the valley were now covered in large snow patches which made for slow going through the well trodden soft snow. So much for an easy day. The further I climbed the snow coverage increased whilst towering above me to the East stood Mjølkedalstinden (2138m) whose western and eastern flanks of I was circumnavigating. Once into Mjølkedalen the lakes were covered in layers of thick ice with evidence of the ice beginning to break up providing a blue tinge of colour to the otherwise translucent ice. The climb continues and whilst not steep the snow makes for slow and sometimes slippery movement with the occasional “post holing” to further slow progress, I was now glad of my lighter weight pack and I wondered how some hikers manage in these conditions. I was soon to find out as I met 3 Norwegians and a dog coming down from the saddle, they had been out for almost 3 weeks and one commented “they had seen a lot of snow” The golden retriever had his own small pack on and seemed very happy stepping from stone to stone down the hill. Finally the trail reached the junction with the trail connecting the DNT huts of Olavsbu and Fondsbu. Fondsbu is located on an access road and often walkers drive to there pay the 50 NOK a day to park and head inland. Fondsbu is also served by a ferry service along Bygdin. From the saddle the trail then climbs further to the 1600m mark through snow softening in the afternoon sunshine. Yes the clouds had broken a bit and the sun was decidedly warm especially when out of the cool light breeze blowing. As I ascended to the highest point I passed an elderly Norwegian couple happily skipping down the hill with Ice Axes, the wife commented on my Pacer Poles stating that she could never use poles, and preferred the ice axe. The descent from this point enabled me to take in the views to east and north the snow covered peaks and the ice covered lakes, I was also fascinated by the winter snow pole routes marked on the map going across the middle of the lakes implying just how could it was up here in winter. Soon the trail to Gjendebu was passed and I headed north through more snow around the eastern flank of Mjølkedalstinden. Climbing up through another saddle before the steep descent down into the valley through more deep snow ensured that by the time I arrived at Olavsbu DNT shelter I needed little convincing that a soft bed, a pillow, hot water … was a better proposition than a tent. The benefit of Olavsbu shelter is that it is only accessible by foot and is a self catering hut, you can either bring your food or purchase what is available in the cupboards. The warden who was staying at the hut whilst I was there was on a 3 week holiday and for this period of time she managed the hut as well as having time to go out for day walks. The night I stayed at the hut there were 2 young Norwegian guys (camping nearby) and a couple, the hut can sleep up to 48 persons, but for tonight I had my own room. There is no running water (it is collected from the stream) and the hot water is heated on a stove. All in all a pleasant and relaxing night convincing me that the DNT huts have a useful role to play, though they will also attract greater crowds.

Day Two: Falkeberget to Skøgadalen

I awoke to the sound of light rain on the tent and a little breeze so after breakfast in bed I packed up and stuck my head out the tent to look at a misty view of the surrounding mountains, extracting myself from the comfort of the tent I soon packed the tent and was off down the Utledelen which would ultimately take me to the DNT hytte of Skogadalsbøen which is also the lowest altitude (831 m) on this hike having started at 1270 m the previous day. The descent which was steep at times through the gorge provided views of the mist shrouded peaks to the south as well as the many snow drifts on the sheltered northern sides of the mountains. The cacophony of sound from the glacier fed river roaring through the gorge ensured that all other sounds were inaudible.

Waterfalls are everywhere to be seen on the sides of the mountains as well as large waterfalls in the valleys such as the one in Utledelen, crossing these fast flowing rivers can provide for an interesting challenge, in some cases there is a bridge but often it is stepping stones which at this time of the year may be covered by fast flowing water up to 20 cm in depth. Whilst my Salomon Fastpacker boots were goretex lined it did not take long before my feet had that damp experience every time I crossed the stream, though they did not fill with water thanks to my Integral Designs gaiters. It was along this section of trail I met my first hikers for the day, a mother and teenage daughter, with day packs heading to Krossbu, having spent the night at Skogadalsbøen. Which is the normal trend the hikers stay in the DNT huts which are either catered, self catered or completely uncatered. Huts normally have a warden and whilst some are permanent wardens others have a 2 or 3 weeks at the hut, which may form part of their summer vacation. Further along the track as I passed some old stone shelters being used by the sheep to protect them from the wind I met a second couple heading north to Krossbu. The trail met up with the trail from Turtagrø (accessible from the same bus as the one I used) which includes a side trail to the twin peaks of Fannaråken and the highest DNT shelter of 2068 m. By now I had descended to an elevation of 800 m and as a result I had entered a forest of sorts with its beech trees and bushes. Crossing the Utla River on bridge I climbed to the DNT hut of Skogadalsbøen and lunch. Whilst eating my lunch on one of the picnic tables the warden wandered over. Now according to Connie Roos “The hut is guarded by a large black Newfoundland dog”. However, all I saw was a very young puppy. The warden looked at my Hagloffs Lim 45 and asked if I was staying the night I said “no” his reason for asking was the size of my pack seemed too small for camping. I then explained that all my gear was compact and thus I used a smaller pack. In fact as I hiked through Jotunheimen many of the day packs I saw were bigger than my pack, albeit they may have weighed less (the max weight of mine was 13.5 kg on the scales at Skogadalsbøen). This was another conversation that was often repeated over the coming days. Having had lunch and spoken with 5 Swedish guys who were looking fitter, leaner and more energetic than I, I headed off up Skogadalen looking for a campsite at around 1300 metres which meant a walk of about 8 kms, up the valley. The trail followed the Skogadøla river and passed through some wonderful beech forest with flowers blooming, it was a very pleasant change from the sparse rock and grass of the high country. It was at this time that the sun sort of came out so it made for a pleasant, warm windless walk with views back towards the high peaks to the west. By 6 pm I had found a campsite on the banks of the Skogadøla river. Having erected the tent I sat down outside wondering whether with the increasing grey cloud I would get to have dinner before it rained. After having eaten dinner and having prepared my green tea, the Swedish group walked past they were looking for a campsite and continued on (I never saw them again, though I saw their prints in the snow. Yes the rain did come and the tent became my refuge again. By now I had developed a theory that at around 4 pm there would be a few drops of rain and around 7:30 pm the rain would increase, this theory was based on 2 days data which is more than some politicians would need.

Day One: Krossbu to Falkeberget

I alighted from the train at Otta, this was my third visit to Otta so for me it was familiar territory. Interestingly whilst sorting my gear the train to Oslo arrived and I noticed 5 hikers one of whom was carrying a Golite rucksack, I immediately thought of the Armchair Adventurer who was returning from a trip to Rondane National Park, details of which can be found on his blog. I had time for lunch and a little stroll around Otta before the bus to Sogndal arrived. It is a little over 2 hours bus trip to Krossbu, one of the many stops on the western side of Jotunheimen. Whilst on the bus I met two Norwegian hikers of a similar age to me who were heading out for three weeks and their plan was to walk from Jotunheimen to the Swedish Border which sounded a fascinating trip. However, there was some concern on their part as to whether I should be out hiking by myself, a theme which was repeated several times over the coming days, though they did recognise that if I was staying to the trails then the risks were lessened and as I advised each day I would be passing a DNT shelter, if I had a problem. It was 5:30 pm before I started walking with my Montane Lightspeed on to block the wind. The sun was shining through broken cloud and whilst the forecast was for rain, I was optimistic that I may at least get a dry first day. So I set off along the DNT marked trail heading south along the Bøvre valley towards a saddle to the west of Falkeberget, it was in the vicinity of the saddle that I proposed to camp for the night. The walk along the plain was pleasant with a gradual climb, whilst out to the east I could see Smørstabbrean the first of many glaciers that while receding are still evident in Jotunheimen. As I climbed I also begun to recognise how light it was and camping late in the evening was of no real concern. Later I discovered that it never really gets dark in Jotunheimen at this time of the year. It was an uneventful climb though I was a little surprised when i found that I was walking through well trodden snow drifts which had softened in the afternoon sun, something that I had not expected when I left Copenhagen. During this section of the walk I did wonder however, whether painting ceilings of an apartment was good training, my decision was it was good training for using Pacer Poles, but I am less certain about my legs.
I passed through the saddle and was immediately stunned by the view of the twin peaks of Fannaråken to the west and the high peaks to the south east, it certainly brought a smile to my face after a long trip to get here. I also noticed the increasingly grey clouds and begun to hope that I could get the tent up and have dinner before it rained. Sadly, no, as I commenced to put the tent up on a relatively flat site below the saddle the light rain started and it was about this time the the fiddle factors of the Laser Competition began to annoy me, or was it because I was tired? With the tent set up it was time for dinner and my first Real Turmat for the trip cooked in the vestibule of the tent. It had been a long two days to get here and I went to sleep listening to the rain on the tent.

The ups and downs of Jotunheimen

Jotunheimen has 275 peaks over 2000 metres and contains the highest peak in Norway Galdhøpiggen at 2469 metres and the second highest is Glittertinden at 2465 metres, however, with its snow and ice cover Glittertinden can be higher than Galdhøpiggen. The highest I climbed on the last trip was close to 1600 metres and the peaks towered around me, an impressive site even when they were shrouded in cloud. Here is an Elevation graph of the trip with the key features marked. Accompanying this I have included a Map of my trip which will help as I compile the day to day record.

Jotunheimen, mountains in the snow.

Well I am back with many photos and tales to tell, as well as many blogs to read. It was a great trip, a little grey at times with not too much rain, there was plenty of walking in the snow along with boulder hopping and above all else spectacular scenery.

Trip summary: Six days, Distance covered 80 km, Total Ascent 3753 m.

In the coming days there will be a trip report and comments on gear, but for now it is sorting through the many photos.

Jotunheimen here I come

House painting done, leave pass granted. An early start in the morning will have me in Lillehammer in the afternoon but with the vagaries of Public Transport it will not be until late following day that I will actually be walking. By then the rain may have turned to showers but the forecast is wet for the week. The wet conditions will undoubtedly test my Litespeed jacket and Haglöfs Oz pullover. My shelter will be the Laser Comp and I will be using my Brunton Crux gas stove combined with my trusty MSR titan Kettle. All my gear fits nicely inside the Haglöfs Lim 45 (a pack sold in Denmark as a large day pack) with a total weight of 13.5 kg for the 7 day trip. Reports on gear and the trip will follow.

Jotunheimen Plans

My basic plan is to start in Krossbu, in the west, and walk to Gjendesheim, in the east. This plan evolved from the availability of bus services at either end and their timing in relation to NSB trains and flights between Copenhagen and Oslo.

The plan is an open one as there are a number of options of hiking from Krossbu to Gjendesheim, I do know that I am not doing any glacier walks this time, nor am I climbing the highest peak in Norway, Galdhøpiggen.

My preferred route commences at Krossbu, visits Skogadalsbøen , Olavsbu, Spiterstulen, Glitterheim, Gjendesheim . However, an alternative route will take me past Gjendebu and Memurubu. But note that I will be carrying and using my Laser Competition every night.

Helping me in my planning has been 2 books
Cicerone Press: Walking in Norway by Connie Roos
Rother Walking Guide: Norway South Bernhard Pollmann

Maps, there is only one choice in Norway which is Turkart, I purchased my Jotunheimen Vest and Aust maps at the Otta Railway Station, if you are into last minute planning otherwise I am sure they can be purchased wherever you may be.

What I am carrying will be the subject of a later post.