Sunday 27 June 2010

An Outdoors Educator


You will be reading this post after I have left to head north from Björkliden along the Nordkalotten Trail. I was fortunate to spend 3 days with Jörgen from Fjäderlätt and having little experience in the fjälls of Sweden I was keen to listen to Jörgen and more importantly watch his approach to travelling in the Swedish fjälls. I learnt a lot as I have done from reading the Fjäderlätt whether the information be in English or in Swedish (Google Translate will always help and give you a laugh at the same time.)

Recently Jörgen extended an invitation to come and experience the wilderness in Sweden late in August this year, my work commitments preclude me from attending, but you may have more flexibility in your schedule, why not visit the web page and find out more. The information is available at Learn Lightweight Backpacking in Arctic Scandinavia I believe anyone attending this course will gain from the experience no matter where you hike.

Thursday 24 June 2010

Weather and Mosquitos

Thanks to Mark and Hendrik I now know that the "bugs are bad this year"

So an extra pack of repellant is packed and clothing can be sprayed if needed. Insect repellants being used are
PreVent, which uses pyrethrins
Autan which uses Icardin (Picardin),
also packed is a BPL headnet. I will report back on the effectiveness of all 3.

Weather the picture gives the current long term predictions, with Green indicating rather certain, Yellow somewhat uncertain (whetever that means) and Red Uncertain. Time will tell on the accuracy of the forecast.


Nordkalotten Gear List

Below is my gear list for my 11 days on the Nordkalotten Trail, the total weight is a little over 16 kg. All weights in the list are in grams.

The weather outlook for the coming days indicates a little rain, a little breeze, a little sun and temperatures ranging between 5 and 15 degrees.


Rucksack
Aarn Mountain Magic 55L: 1,540

Sleeping

Warmlite 2c tent with pegs: 1,372
Nunatak Arc Specialist Quilt: 550
Neo Air Short: 270
Multimat (sit and feet): 98
Tyvek Groundsheet: 150

Cooking

Primus Micron Ti: 77
MSR 850 + BPL Lid: 110
AL foil windshield: 45
Reflextix Cozy: 23
Gas bottle stand: 20
Foldacup: 23
Short Handled Spoon: 9
Lightmyfire: 22

Clothing

Carried
BPL Cocoon Hoody: 339
Silk Long Johns sleeping: 191
BPL UL merino Hoody sleeping: 180
Hagloffs OZ Pullover: 219
Montane Featherlite Windshirt (worn): 100
Montane Featherlite Pants: 128
MLD eVent Overmitts: 30
Possum Fur Gloves: 42
Possum Fur Socks: 83
BPL Merino Hat: 20
Buff: 37

Clothing Worn

BPL Beartooth Merino Hoody: 272
IceBreaker SS Pulse Grey: 240
Montane Terra Converts: 384
Underarmour Compression Short: 118
Darntough Socks: 97
Injini Toe socks: 51
Merino Legless: 205
Salomon Quest boots: 1,576
Pacer Poles: 700
Tilley hat: 96
ID shortie gaiters: 66
BPL Headnet: 9

Various

OlympusE-P2: 467
Tripod: 296
Mobile phone: 167
Washkit with towel: 92
First Aid and repair: 150
3 l exped bag: 45
1 l exped bag: 27
GPS: 136


Food and Fuel

Nalgene 1.5 litre: 63
Platy 0.5 litre: 20
Swiss Army Classic Knife: 30
Fuel per day (GAS): 300
Fuel Carrier GAS: 220
Water: 500
Food per day: 7710

Total weight in Pack of just over 16 kgs.

Tuesday 22 June 2010

A days food



Real Turmat
Oats, with Pecans, Raisin, Milk Powder and Brown Sugar
Lemon Flavoured CousCous with Pine Nuts and Raisins
Sun Dried Apricots
The rest is self explanatory.

Thanks to Hendrik for his insight on the Eat Natural and Sesame Bars.
Starbuck Coffee, thanks Phil

A days food weight is 780 gms.

Energy values are 3658 Calories or 15307 kj.

Saturday 19 June 2010

Packing for a long trip.

Photo courtesy of Fjäderlätt


When going on a long trip often it is your food that takes up the most space. I am about to set off on an 11 day, 10 night, trip along the Nordakalotten, the weight of food I am carrying is planned to be 8.5 kg, now in some ways the weight is not important, however, the volume is. Given that as every day progresses the weight and volume in my pack will decrease ideally I would like to start out with too much stuff in a small pack than a large (heavier) pack whose weight and volume will soon become redundant.

This is my challenge for the trip.

I could take an Aarn Natural Balance 85l pack which will hold everything and weigh 2.2 kg or take an Aarn Mountain Magic 55, a 55 litre pack which may struggle initially but only weighs 1.54 kg (which is a weight saving equivalent of almost a days food.) So there is an obvious benefit then in using the smaller pack so it is the volume of the food that becomes critical.

Over at Backpacking Light there was a very good article on food and travelling light in the Sierras. The essence of the food section of this article was 2000 kj per 100 gms in food with 680 gms of food every day resulted in 14000 kj per day which was seen as sufficient for the trip. Which seems to me to be about right. So with that in mind I have aimed for foods that offer 2000 kj per 100 gms and are of low volume. Oils are off course one of the most obvious solutions but a bottle of oil a day does not seem to me to be an ideal solution.

So my basic menu is built around porridge in the morning, lunch of cheese and tortilla wraps or couscous meals and for dinner Real Turmat.

Porridge I use a menu developed from Bill McCartney's book Travel Light, Eat Heavy Along the Appalachian Trail and Other Mystical Routes and comprises oats Pecan Nuts raisins along with powdered milk and brown sugar.

Lunch is cheese and Tortilla Wraps or Lemon flavoured couscous with pine nuts and raisins.

Dinner is Real Turmat meals with home dehydrated fruit for dessert. The challenge with the Real Turmat meals is the bulky packaging. The packaging is robust and will withstand a lot of punishment, but when it comes to packing it is space hungry. Robin over at blogpackinglight has successfully tried repackaging Real Turmat meals and I am sure that this will help to reduce volume in the pack.

Packing the Aarn packs is an art, if you have a single sack bag with maybe some external pockets then everything has to fit into the main sac, but an Aarn pack requires you to think different. As I sit here writing this blog entry I have about 3 kg in each front pocket with about 11 kg in the main sack. The front pockets must contain all the days needs including food, camera, first aid etc so that the main section of the pack with dry bag is not opened.

I will let you know if I succeed

Thursday 17 June 2010

Am I there yet?


Well I am furiously working on my gear list, for my departure next week, currently the weights are made up of:

Equipment weight: 7 610 gms
Food and Fuel weight: 9 200 gms
Clothing Worn weight: 3 421 gms
Complete Pack weight 16 810 gms

The big three are

Pack Aarn Natural Balance (or in english) this is an 83litre pack yes a huge pack and I know I will not fill it, but the benefits include coming with 2 separate dry bag sections and thereby having sufficient space for all my gear whilst also keeping the wet gear away from the dry stuff. Weight of the pack is 2200 gms, if I can I will use a Aarn Mountain Magic 55 which weighs in at 1550 gms that will be nice, a work in progress.

Shelter, I am taking a Stephensons Warmlite 2 C a light tent but heavy by tarp standards, however, it is likely that there will be damp moist days and if its bug season then the ability to escape the hordes will be appreciated. Also the tent can be erected quickly with its 2 hoops and 3 pegs thus shelter can be erected in exposed conditions in under 5 minutes. Furthermore I intend to camp as high as possible as often as possible and this tent will cope with strong winds. Weight 1300 gms with seam sealing.

Sleeping
, I never leave home without an Nunatak Arc quilt, for this trip it is the Arc Specialist weighing in at 550 gms.

So big three weight is 4050 grams, a little heavy but with it comes piece of mind. However I do not meet the 343 criteria, so this will be an aim for the next trip to the area.

Other equipment:

For cooking I am taking a MSR 850 kettle, a Primus Micron Ti stove with an Aluminium windshield and a mini lightmyfire the weight for the cook kit with spoon and cozy is 306 gms.

Sleeping, aside from the quilt I will be using a short Neoair and a multimat adventurer Quilt, neoair and multimat total weight is 918 gms.

Aside from sleeping clothing (silk pants and merino top) I will be carrying my Rab Demand PullOn which will be combined with Montane Featherlite pants and MLD eVent mittens, BPL Cocoon Hoody, Possum fur hat and gloves should the conditions be very wet and cold. Total weight of clothing carried in the pack will be 1230 gms.

I expect that for most of the time I will be wearing a Montane Featherlite Windshirt combined with a BPL Merino Hoody and possibly an Icebreaker short sleeve shirt, for bottoms it will be Montane Terra Converts, Icebreaker legless (if needed) and Underarmour shorts along with my Tilley Hat and normal socks.

There are of course other odds and ends such as camera, phone, first aid, personal hygiene which all add up in weight, but are very important.

A final gear list will be available in the coming days.

Monday 14 June 2010

Stoves

Perhaps my biggest challenge for this trip has been, What stove?

I have more stoves than I am prepared to admit to, so the first decision is wood, gas, metho or esbit.

Answer, I would love to use wood, but am not sure about the area I am heading to so; gas is easy, alcohol and esbit are also easy but could be a hassle.


So gas is easy but the empty canister weight adds grams to my pack my quick calculation means that I need to carry (including canister weight) about 615 grams of gas, whereas with an alcohol stove I could carry 550 gms including containers then there is the burners etc.

If I carry a Trail Designs Heineken Keg stove the weight for the keg, caldera, cozy, plastic cup is 144 gms, whereas a Monatauk Gnat plus pot wind screen is 217 gms. So the weights are


Trail Designs Keg 694 gm starting weight
Monatauk Gnat 777 gm starting weight.

What do I choose?

On weight alone is has to be the Keg and the keg has the added advantages of using alcohol, reliable and no moving parts. On the other hand a gas stove requires clean jets burners etc. Usually weighs more but offers less of CO problem, reliability and controls. An interesting dilemma.

Sunday 13 June 2010

Organised Wandering

So the trip is planned, I will alight from the train at Björkliden on the banks of Torneträsk and then soon after be on the Nordkalotten as it wends its way north. Initially I will follow the shore line of Torneträsk and if it is warm with little or no wind then the mosquitos will want to be friends, but my friends will be a BPL Headnet and PreVent.

Initially my plan is to walk to Lappjordhytta a distance of about 15 km, from which I will then climb to higher elevations before searching out a hopefully bug free campsite. This will form the general plan for each day walking about 20 km a day along the trail and seeking a high campsite. There are many possible detours and peaks to climb so with almost 24 hours of daylight I will be taking every opportunity to seek out places of interest as I walk along the trail. Perhaps one highlight is the three countries border between Finland, Norway and Sweden, it may be at this point that I will take the ferry to Kilipsjärv instead of walking, time will tell.

Thus I have a starting point and time as well as an end point and time. However, I must remember that my finishing point and bus to Tromsø leaves from Kilipsjärvi which is in Finland and therefore Finnish time, which is 1 hour different to Swedish and Danish time.

Maps of the area
There are 3 Swedish 1:100 000 maps which cover most the of the route these are
BD 1 Treriksröset - Råstojaure
BD 3 Rensjön - Pulsujärvi
BD 6 Abisko - Kebnekaise - Narvik

However, the map the covers the entire route is a Norwegian1: 100 000 map which is

Turkart Indre Troms


I have photocopied the required sections of the map onto waterproof paper for day to day use but will carry the Turkart, just in case I fall of the map.

I buy all my maps from Nordisk Korthandel who provide an excellent in house as well as online ordering system.

Wednesday 9 June 2010

Monatauk Gnat Update


Thanks to Martin at Fjäderlätt, I now have the weights of gas used for the Gnat on the recent trip to Vålådalen.

The stove was only used for boiling water, and a windscreen was used some of the time, the design of the windscreen came from BPL.com and information can be found here.

The total amount of water boiled for the 3 days was 4 litres approximately, the amount of gas used was 80 gms, indicating that 20 gms of gas per litre of water boiled was used. For me this would mean that I would use less than 30 grams of gas a day and with the weight of the stove (48 gms), the on trail weight has similar figures to that of esbit and alcohol. In the end the difference may be a matter of the weight of the empty gas canisters when compared with the weight of the bottles used for alcohol or the packaging of the Esbit, an interesting conundrum.




Monday 7 June 2010

Heading North



It is 12 months ago when I had planned to go to Lapland and walk a section of the Nordkalotten Trail, in particular Kilipsjärvi to Abisko, well the purchase of a house put an end to that, but this year it is happening. There has been some modifications on the route as well as gear since last year which I will describe below.

The Route:

I will be catching the train from Copenhagen to Björkliden and commence the walk north from there. The trail distance is about 180 km, not including side trips, but route is intended to allow for variation, depending on the scenery weather etc. The advantage of taking the train is that I can pack all my gear including fuel before leaving Copenhagen.

The gear:

For me it is an unknown area and as consequence I prefer to err on the side of caution and given that the weather will most likely be damp, there will be mosquitos and it can be windy I will be taking a tent. The tent is a Stephenson's Warmlite 2C in a lovely blue colour, the total weight of the tent with poles and seam sealing is 1.3 kg and it provides a large amount of bug and moisture protected space for 1. My pack will be the Aarn Natural Balance, I do not expect to fill the pack, but with its two waterproof compartments I will be able to separate wet gear from dry gear which will give me a sense of security if the weather is very wet. The front Balance pockets provide ample space for the daily needs including camera, tripod, food and cooking gear. I may be using a gas stove on the trip for its ease of use along with the option to use it in a tent if the conditions warrant.

I will be writing more before I leave on other considerations, especially food, wet weather clothing and cameras.

Sunday 6 June 2010

Scandinavian Bloggers Meet Up: Vålådalen





I set off from Copenhagen to Stockholm to meet with 5 other Scandinavian bloggers, having never met them before this provided an interesting background to the beginning of what turned out to be a wonderfully wet experience in Vålådalen.I arrived in Stockholm and set off to buy some gas for my stove. Returning to Stockholm central station, where I was to meet Joe and Hendrik, I spent some time people watching and wondering how I could recognise Joe and Hendrik, fortunately having watched many of Hendrik's videos he was easily recognisable as was Joe. Depositing our bags in a locker we set off to the outdoor shops where Hendrik was keen to purchase a 120 litre Fjällräven pack for the trip whilst Joe was interested in the smaller 100 litre packs. Sadly we were unable to get the correct size and soon returned to the railway station to meet the Swedish bloggers, now this was the challenge we were to meet at The Ring, which is a popular meeting spot we discovered, however, it was the Inov 8 shoes which gave it away and we had soon met up with Martin and later Gustav, also in Inov8's.
Off to Olearys (there is an Irish pub or 2 in very town) for dinner where we were soon joined by Jörgen and now we were 6. After dinner and carbohydrate loading we wandered down to our home for the night the Night Train to Storlien. Finding our bunks we soon set about the task of fitting 6 hikers and gear into a confined area. We were awoken the next morning to the news that we were about an hour late, so we took our time with a leisurely breakfast (almost too leisurely for some) after which we alighted the train at Undersaker where we were met by Stefan's Taxi which then drove us to the start of the walk after a quick gear drop off of the gear not required for the trip which for Joe included his Neo Air.

A group photo was taken in the misty grey morning as three other heavily loaded walkers set off for their 3 day trip. The trail wandered through the forests, with the mist covered mountains as a backdrop, we soon settled into a pleasant pace with conversations on many topics taking place, perhaps interestingly for me at least, I never took the map out the whole trip but instead left it to Jörgen, Martin and Gustav to lead the way. This of course did lead to the occasional discussions between the trio on what was the best route. Soon we had reached a view point over Vålån and stopped for a break, Martin and Gustav introduced us to Runekager as light rain began to fall. There was also much viewing of others gear, there was Hendrik with his
Laufbursche huckePack, Joe with his Gossamer Gear Gorilla, Gustave with his Gossamer Gear Murmur, Jörgen with his Mariposa, Martin with his Granite Gear pack and me with my Aarn Mountain Magic 55, as well there was a range of walking poles including Gossamer Gear LT 4's, Mountain Kings from the UK, ski poles and Pacer Poles. The GG packs and LT4's were loaned to the group by Gossamer Gear (thanks). We headed off in a westerly direction and soon Jörgen said this is where we leave the trail and before long we found ourselves wading a river (no more dry feet or shoes) and not long afterwards a lunch spot was found, soon 2 bushbuddies, 1 evernew dx woodburner and 3 gas stoves including the Monatauk Gnat were out cooking lunch. It was a tranquil spot with views over the lake.

Eventually it was time to move and under Jörgen's expert navigation we headed towards the banks of Vålån which we would follow the remainder of the day.
It was a wonderful walk along the untracked eastern side of the river, occasionally we would find animal pads or follow the river bank or make our own trail through the old forest meanwhile there was always the sound of the river to keep us company.


Finally we reached a spot near a set a of rapids which seemed like a great spot for camping.



We looked for spots in the open forest and soon there were six different shelters (Trailstar, Gatewood Cape, Duomid, Hilleberg Rajd, Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn and Flysheet from a Terra Nova Photon). Soon I discovered the value of the trailstar there were not many flat spots but I was able to put the shelter up and then locate an ideal spot under it for the night, I slept very well as did everyone else and it was a late start the next day. After a leisurely breakfast in bed I wandered over to the fire where Jörgen was eating breakfast soon we were joined by the remainder of the group and we sat around talking, drinking coffee and just enjoying the surrounds.

It was another grey morning and whilst the cloud seemed a little higher the peaks were still covered in cloud. The plan for today was to continue to follow the river northwards until we met the trail connecting Vålåstugorna and Lunndörrsstugona and then follow the path west ultimately camping in Issjödalen. As we climbed we began to pass through drifts of snow as the forest thinned out, as well it was a little breezier and the rain/mist ensured that our wet weather gear was on at all times.


However, I did not find it unpleasant and the expansive views of the valleys made up for the discomfort, soon after disturbing a couple of reindeer we reached the trail and began skirting Trondfjällen before descending into the Luunndörrssån valley. Just as my feet were beginning to dry we came to the inevitable ford and so my feet were soon wet again, a state which they would remain for the rest of the trip. It was also where the "Inov8 boys" allowed themselves to be photographed together, the photographer was not wearing Inov8s.
Crossing the Lunndörrssån on a suspension bridge we soon found ourselves climbing past some lakes before arriving at Lunndörrstugorna, the wind had increased and with the mist, the shelter was a pleasant escape from the cold outside. This was a lunch stop and Gustav was proud of the fact that he had got his bushbuddy burning and water boiled, he was less happy when he spilt the water, this was not to be the last time. After a long lunch we walked past the locked sauna and climbed away from Lunndörrstugorna, it was still misty and cool and it took me a little while to warm up again, soon we were in the surreal treeless landscape below Stor-Gröngumpen with views to the north of the pyramids as described by
Gustav in his tour of 2009. It was approaching 6 pm as we descended towards Issjön (Ice lake) and the breeze ensured that we did not stand around chatting as we passed the Kings hunting lodge. We continued to descend in search of sheltered campsite finally arriving at Grönvallen, it was evident that we were going to get very wet feet the next morning so we back tracked to a field and set up camp. The ground was very wet and the mosquitos were already out and warming up for the summer. It was pleasant night spent discussing a range of things, including gear, food, cooking etc.

The morning brought with it the occasion patches of blue sky, indicating that as we were leaving the weather would improve. Breakfast taken slowly with Joe demonstrating his capabilities of making muffins.

It was to be a short day today and after packing we headed past the cottages of Grönvallen and commenced walking through water along the trail for the next half kilometre before passing by Stor Vargtjärnen with its panoramic views of Middagsvalen resplendent with its radio tower on top, by now the sun was breaking through which made for a pleasant walk across Vargtjärnflåtet soon it was lunchtime.
After lunch reality began to appear with houses, dogs cars and bitumen roads and with in an hour after the final group photos we were back at Vålågårdens camping and the only things left to do was have a sauna, shower, enjoy the sunshine and dry out gear and have a beer or 2.

Words cannot really describe the wonders of the trip, both from a scenery perspective as well as from an educational perspective. The trip demonstrated to me that there is always something to learn or at least different perspectives on old ideas to consider.

My gear

Trailstar: excellent shelter, plenty of space and allows for the solo walker to locate a flat comfortable spot even if the ground is uneven, it is possible to sit up in it and also provides the opportunity to look outside without the need to open a door. My go to shelter.

Aarn Mountain Magic 55l, I used smaller front pockets so it could be better described as a 40 litre pack, with its water proof liner it is ideal in the conditions we experienced as everything was kept dry inside. Once the straps are adjusted for fit then the pack moves with you and is very comfortable, the front balance pockets are ideal for storing the days needs along with camera, tripod etc. The main sack has a dry bag, which can be unvelcroed and the trailstar was stored in an Exped drybag, inside the main bag. However, the trailstar would have fitted into the small front mesh pocket at the rear. If I had been using the normal balance pockets then the tarp could have been carried in one of those (the balance pockets also have removable dry bags).

Rab Demand Pullon: I wore this most of the time and was very impressed, it breathes superbly (too well for at times I felt the cooling inside the jacket) it has a roomy hood and excellent zip and Napoleon pocket, this will be jacket of choice in my upcoming trip to Lapland.

Hendrik offered me the use of the Monatauk Gnat (currently the worlds lightest gas stove) the stove works well and certainly packs small, I used the accompanying carrying case which according to Hendrik almost weighs the same as the stove, unfortunately I do not have any fuel consumption figures as I had to buy my gas in Stockholm and then gave the bottle to Martin as I was unable to carry it on the plane. No doubt there will be many more posts and photographs from other members of the group, so keep an eye on the following blogs.
Hiking in Finland
The bearablelightness
Thunder in the Night
Fjäderlätt
A special thanks goes to Hendrik for instigating the idea and to Martin, Jörgen and Gustav for logistics of an excellent trip. Thanks