Walking tour above the Arctic Circle.

Later this year I am planning a trip above the Arctic Circle in Sweden, and whilst the trip will not be as isolated as the Arctic 1000, I have some aims which include;

- Self supported
- Independent travel
- Comfortably lightweight
- Flexibility of travel, with the starting and end points fixed.

Whilst the hiking route is essentially planned the gear is still to be finalised, clearly minimum weight is important within the limitations of the anticipated weather conditions which include;

- Temperature Ranges 5 C to 15 C
- Possible night time temperatures of 0 C
- Rain showers and drizzle
- Windy at times, with accompanying wind chill

So the main items of gear that need to be considered are;

- Shelter
- Packing
- Cooking
- Footwear
- Outer clothing
- Photography

Over the coming weeks I intend to provide an overview of the available options within the limits of the gear that I currently have, or may consider purchasing. The first of the these articles is about the choices of shelters will appear later this week.

Holiday Season

Like many others the closer you get to Christmas, the busier it gets, no matter how well you plan.

Have a great holiday season and we will be back early in the new year.

B and R


Photo: Sunrise in Röstånga (Sweden), Camera Ricoh GX 100

Comparison of performance BPL Firelite Ti Wing and Caldera Cone using the BPL Trapper Mug

Recently I have completed 2 four day trips on the Skåneleden in Sweden. I have used Esbit as fuel for each trip but have taken different stoves so as to compare the performance of each in real life conditions. In both cases the temperatures experienced ranged between 2 and 8 degrees Celsius and the stoves were sheltered from the wind, often on the floor of the Vindskydd (windshelters). I have been using Esbit because it is easily measurable and thus makes it easier to determine just how much is needed to be packed.

The two stoves used have been the BPL (USA) FireLite Titanium Esbit Wing Stove and the Trail Designs Firelite SUL 475 Trapper's Mug Caldera Cone using the Gram Cracker for Esbit. The pot used in each case was the BPL USA Trapper mug a 475 ml pot weighing 37 gm, there is no lid and I used a piece of Aluminium foil.


BPL (USA) FireLite Titanium Esbit Wing Stove, windshield, and reflector plate (as shown in the picture below) = 26 gms (not including the Trapper mug)



Trail Designs caldera cone, gram cracker and Caddy (optional extra) and Trapper Mug
i. Total weight with caddy = 117 gms (not including the Trapper mug)
ii. Total weight without caddy = 37 gms (not including the Trapper mug)

The advantage of the caddy is that it can be used as a bowl and a cup, the disadvantage is the weight.


So how do they compare with my style of cooking, which is boiling a cup of water in the morning for coffee, making a cup of soup in the evening as well as a cup of coffee and a "freezer bag meal" where about 400 ml of water is boiled and then added to noodles mixed with other ingredients. In a day I would heat to boiling about 1600 ml of water that is 4 mugs. I normally carry a mixture of 4 gm and 14 gm Esbit tablets and for heating water in the morning I found I could use 1.5 tablets (6 gm) with the Caldera, but needed 2 tablets (8 gm) with the BPL Ti Wing. In the afternoon one 14 gm tablet was the ideal option for both stoves especially for the Caldera where I was able to boil 2 pots of water whereas for the Ti Wing I was able to boil 1 pot with the second almost boiling.

In summary, for the BPL Ti Wing I needed a total of 38 gm of Esbit whilst for the Caldera I needed 34 gm of Esbit, in each case there would be a little in reserve and as the weather gets warmer there is the potential for further savings. The following chart provides an overview of the weights for a 7 day trip using each stove and with or without the caddy. Unsurprisingly the Caldera with caddy is the heaviest and remains so. By the end of the third day the Caldera is a slightly lighter option than the BPL Ti wing, however using these figures after a week the difference is only 17 gms taking into account the original weight of the stove and the differences in the weight of fuel used.

So which option is better? Well as always it depends on your preferences, but if weight and packability are your highest priority then the BPL Ti wing is the best option, however, if you want to say that you are carrying the lightest option then the Caldera over a 7 day period is better. The Caddy of course provides additional options in food preparation and may on some trips be the best option especially if you are sharing the kitchen.



We will continue to explore these alternatives as well as other stove options, but most importantly getting out there is more important than counting the number of grams of a stove you are carrying.

MSR Pot and Ti Tri Caldera in wood burning mode

Holdfast has asked about the use of the wood burning option on the Ti Tri Caldera so here is a picture showing how wood can be added to the fire, note that there is also a Ti base plate that extends beyond the cone to protect the ground from scorch marks. Two titanium stakes are used to raise the pot to close to the rim of the cone.
The benefit of the Ti Tri is if you are relying on 2 fuel systems, such as alcohol and wood, but if wood is you one and only fuel then the Bush Buddy from Canada may be your best option.

Kust till Kustleden: Östafors to Glimåkra

I was able to get away for 4 days to the coast to coast trail in northern Skåne, Sweden. The Kust till Kustleden is the northern walking trail of the Skåneleden system and connects Sölvesborg in the east with Ängelholm in the west a total of approximately 300 kms. A trip report and photos are coming. I will also be providing an update on the Shangrai La 3 as well as comparison on the of the BPL (USA) Trapper mug with the Caldera and the BPL Titanium Esbit Wing Stove

GoLite Shangri La 3

For a while now I had been considering the Golite TiPi offerings, firstly the hex and then the Shangri La 3. Finally got around to purchasing a Sage Green Shangri La 3 the first observation when it was erected is that there is a lot of space inside, in actuality there just about 6 square meters of floor space. However, its size is also its disadvantage the Shangri La is a ground area hungry shelter and requires a site that is at least 3 metres by 3 metres and preferably one that is 4 x 4 metre site. For this reason the shelter had limited use on my recent trip along the Ås till Åsleden. Notwithstanding its area hunger the shelter is undoubtedly the ideal shelter should you be looking for extra space.


As for the pole, I always thought that the hiking poles were the way to go. I use Pacer Poles and Neil Johnstone at BPL USA provided the way to go.



For a ground sheet I use a Gossamer Gear Polycro sheet that has been modified for the shelter.

So the weights are

Shelter (no pegs, ropes etc) 705 gm
Pole (extra section) 36 gm
Groundsheet 110 gm

Total weight, not including stakes 851 gm, lighter than my beloved Integral Designs Uni Shelter.

This shelter will be my preferred winter shelter because of its space and its sturdiness in adverse weather, though I agree with Chris Townsend, a double ended zip in the door would make this the perfect shelter.

Long Winter nights in a tent

As winter approaches in the north the nights get longer and more time is spent in a shelter or tent. Usually I carry a book with me but I find that reading by torch light far from ideal. In the past I have carried my iPod Nano and listened to music. On this occasion I decided to take some of the Podcasts from Outdoors Station to listen to, as I have always found it difficult to concentrate on them at home. The first podcast I listened to was the Cape Wraith Trail. Listening to the story was relaxing with the sounds of the skylark, the sea as well as the background music interspersed throughout the episodes. Given that the nano battery life is pretty good these days it is apparent that listening to podcast at the end of a day on the trail with a long night to come allows the walker to unwind and consider the following days plans. Furthermore, the information included within the podcast provides ideas for the next trip whether it be in relation to gear or location. I now need to find more podcasts of similar content for my next trip.

A Tale of Two Water Filtration Systems: Aquagear and Aquamira Frontier Pro

On a recent trip along the Ås till Åsleden I carried both the Aquagear Water Filter and the Aquamira Frontier Pro Filter. Why? Well it seemed like an ideal opportunity to compare these filters when hiking on lowland trails where the water is more likely to be affected by chemicals than bugs.

Some basic facts

The Aquagear is a bottle and filtration system weighing 160 gm (when the filter is wet), the bottle, according to the label holds 18 fl. ozs. but delivers a little less than 500 ml. I use the bottle along with a 500 ml Platypus bottle. Thereby carrying not more than 1 litre (1 kg) of water at any time. The amount of water carried depends on the location and one day on the Ås till Åsleden I crossed very few streams and consequently had very little water left at the end of the day.

The Aquamira Frontier Pro is a filtration system and weighs 68 gm with wet filter, an added 1 litre Platypus would take the weight to about 95 gm, a weight saving on the Aquagear.

The primary differences between the 2 systems apart from their physical weight are;
(i) Aquagear has a filter pore size of 2 microns, whilst the Aquamira has filter pore size of 3 microns.
(ii) The Aquamira has a Pre filter of porous plastic micro filter, the Aquagear has a mesh filter for removing large particles such as leaves.

My experiences:
When I arrived at the campsite on the second night on the Ås till Åsleden I found that the well was almost dry and required a lot of pumping to get water up from the bottom of the well to fill the Platypus bottles, but I also noticed that the water was very red probably from rust so I immediately seized the opportunity to test out both filters. Very quickly the Frontier Pro stopped flowing, the pre filter had “clogged” with the very fine rust sediment however, the Aquagear continued to flow albeit slowly. Both filters did provide crystal clear water the Aquagear required less effort and time to provide sufficient for the evening and the following morning. Admittedly if I had more pre filters for the Frontier Pro then I would have had sufficient clean water but I would probably have “clogged” up these as well. To me though the final test came the next day when I had access to crystal clear water.

With a couple of rinses I was able to remove most of the colour from the water in the Aquagear bottle whilst cleaning the pre filter of the Frontier Pro was less successful, but it did improve the flow rate.

In summary, could I have done things differently, possibly but it is apparent to me that whilst both options may filter out most of the stuff in the water, it is my opinion that the Aquagear provides not only the filtration capacity (within the prescribed limits) but also allows for field cleaning which does not require me carrying extra pre filters when the first one is no longer useable.

From now on I will be carrying the Aquagear and if necessary Aquamira tablets for use when I am concerned about the real nasties which are not removed by either filter.

Ås till Åsleden

Just back from 5 days on the Ås till Åsleden in Skåne, Sweden. The Ås till Åsleden (Ridge to Ridge Trail) is part of the 1000 km long Skåneleden trail system which celebrates its 30 year anniversary this year. It was a great trip, but I must remember to check the hunting calendar next time, as my first day out coincided with the first day of Moose hunting season.

There will be more to come in the following days including reports on some gear including "How to entertain yourself on long dark nights", "My experiences with 2 water filtration systems", "Golite Shangri-La 3 first thoughts" and "Cooking with a small pot"

Sil Tarps and Ponchos

B bought an Integral Designs Sil Poncho about 3 years ago, in Copenhagen. Since that time she has used the poncho in Norway, Denmark, the UK, USA and Australia. I have been so impressed by the multiplicity of uses of the Poncho that I also purchased one for use when we travel together.

Poncho Mode
There are many poncho available on the market and but what has attracted us to the Integral Designs poncho is the quality of the manufacture, the robustness of the press studs when used in poncho mode and the elasticised draw cord which allows the wearer to pull the poncho tight around the waste thereby reducing the flapping in windy conditions and providing a pack cover. The hood on the poncho is roomy and provides ample space to wear hats or caps underneath the poncho.

Shelter Mode
The ID Sil Poncho has dimensions of 1.5 m x 2.4 m which enables it to be used as a minimalist shelter, the simplest structure us the lean to which provides a shelter length sufficient to protect the users sleeping bag and bivy, personally I would use a lightweight bivy such as that provided by MLD, BPL or RAB to ensure that the sleeping bags do not get damp from wind blown rain. However, if you have a more weather resistant bivy such as the ID Micro Bivy then other shelter arrangements are possible, my preferred arrangement is shown in the accompanying picture, this modified lean to shape provides shelter from 2 sides and allows the user to have a semi enclosed area that can be used for eating, cooking (with care) and other relaxation.
The disadvantage with this arrangement is that it requires some of the bivy to be exposed to the weather and as a consequence the increased weight of the bivy makes it a heavier proposition than the simple lean to or the A frame shelter.

For 2 persons, an alternative shelter is to connect the tarps together using the press studs, this provides shelter which is 3 m x 2.4 m albeit with a gap down the centre where the join is, however it provides considerable space for 2 persons in inclement weather.

Day shelter, perhaps one of the greatest advantages of poncho and small tarps is the capability to set them up as a lunch or rest stop shelter in bad weather allowing more than one person to be protected from the elements for a short time at least.

The poncho tarp serves a number of important roles in a hikers kit and even if you use a tent normally at night is multiple uses of rain protection and shelter make it one of the first pieces of gear that goes into my pack at all times.

And if the poncho is not your preferred option then the Integral Designs Siltarp is another option, weighing just 200 gm, it will provide shelter and some space for cooking etc.

Nowadays I prefer to use the Integral Designs Sil Cape and the Integral Designs Siltarp as my rain gear and shelter, the total weight for this combination is about 350 gms.

Return to Sweden and the Skåneleden

This past weekend we took the opportunity to visit another section of the Skåneleden, in this case it was a section of the Nord till Sydleden which connects Southern Sweden with the Kyst to Kyst trail in the north of Skåne.

The weather was cool but clear and as usual it was a pleasure to spend some time in the Swedish Forests. Our time was spent in the area between Hörby and Höör, Ringsjon is the largest natural feature here and provides a habitat for a wide range of birds. Nearby is the Fultofta Naturcentrum which provides easy access to the Nord till Sydleden and is about 3 km from the Ås till Åsleden a north West South East trail running through the middle of Skåne. We can recommend a visit to the Fultofta centre for its wonderful exhibits as well as its coffee.

At the junction of Nord till Sydleden and Ås till Åsleden near the outskirts of Höör the Ås till Åsleden passes through the locale of Frostvallen an interesting area with its lake and large accommodation areas and with a thermometer strategically placed on a large notice board, our assumption is that in winter it may get a little cold there.

The trails were well marked with orange markers and direction signs where needed, we have not seen such efficient marking of trails since we were on the Appalachian Trail with its White Blazes

BPL Titanium Wing Stove

For a while now I have had the BPL Titanium Wing Stove in my gear closet and whilst I have tried it a few times I have never taken it on a trip. Finally last weekend was an opportunity to test it out before longer trip in October.

For me it was a blessing to be able to take out the stove, windshield, fuel and matches from my 500 ml pot. to set it up and light. It was easy to use and took about 7 minutes to boils sufficient water for my boil in the bag meal. Yes there was a residue on the bottom of the pot but with the use of a small scourer I was able to clean it off. The advantage of such a stove is the measured quantity of fuel used and thus for me at least it is easy to determine how much fuel to pack. I intend to use this stove from now on because of its simplicity as well as its weight savings.

Books for the outdoors

There are many books titles and authors writing for the outdoors, you can get
How to books,
How to get there books,
What to carry books,
Historical hiking books,
Hysterical hiking books,

and many many more.

Every time we look at blogs we find suggestions for books, most often new and most often from Amazon, which admittedly is a great resource when looking for books. But, for us the first source of books is ABE we have used this online site to purchase both new and used books on a range of topics. Often you will find high quality second hand books available in via ABE in your country (these books are sold by local second booksellers) at very reasonable prices. To date we have purchased books in the USA, UK, Australia and Denmark and each time these books have arrived in the condition that was described and in a timely manner. Next time you are looking for a book whether it be by Chris Townsend or J K Rowling they are worth a look.

Integral Designs Unishelter

Whilst laying in my Unishelter watching the sun rise recently I begun to reflect on why I like this shelter. It is a bit more than a bivy and tarp and it weighs more than the lightest tents but for me it is my preferred option. As it provides an easy and quick solution to setting up camp, it provides that next to nature feel whilst also providing ample shelter in rainy conditions. It allows me to camp in small areas where a tent would not be suitable. The bivy has lots of space inside and it is possible to change clothes whilst inside the bivy. Entry and exit can be a challenge in the rain but a little planning can be helpful.

Things I have learnt are
1. Pack your sleeping bag and other dry clothes inside the bivy, it both saves a waterproof pack liner and allows you to assemble the bivy with your dry gear well away from the entry and thus moisture.
2. Plan at least one non cook meal if you bivy bound.
3. A container to save you midnight visits to the a nearby tree can be invaluable when it is raining.
4. Organise your gear for a quick exit in the mornings when it is raining.
5. Have your camera ready for those sunrises you will see whilst still half asleep.
6. Choose a site which gives the maximum benefits of seeing the surroundings and appreciating the stars and other sights at night.
7. A small tarp (or umbrella) can be used to protect you upon entry and exit in torrential rain.
8. Enjoy the experience and learn as you go along.

Møns Klint

The clouds parted and the sun shone so it was time to go hiking, for a while now I had planned a visit to Møns Klint about 2 hours south of Copenhagen, whilst my original plan changed a little it still gave me the opportunity to spend a couple of nights and 2 glorious days in this beautiful area.

Møn is renowned for its cliffs (klints) of White chalk, these cliffs rise around 100 metres above the sea level and are visible for many kilometres, the area has been a popular tourist attraction for many years and now has a a large visitor centre with restaurant as well as tourist information facilities. However, Møn Rundt, part of the Sjællandsleden, offers opportunities for both day and overnight hikers.

For this trip I travelled down late in the afternoon and then camped in a spot which overlooked the Baltic Sea. I set up my bivy and made dinner before taking time to sit and reflect on the day at work and the trip to Møn, as a I sat quietly looking out to sea I noticed a deer grazing on the cliffs below, it made me realise how often in my rush to get somewhere I had not really taken the time to look around.

After a rainy night the sunrise the next morning was really special and as I stared bleary eyed out of my bivy I felt that sense of belonging that often comes with my visits to forested areas wherever they may be. After packing up I headed south along the well used walking path that follows the cliff line to the Møn's Lighthouse some 12 km away, this was to be my days walk. There are many fine viewpoints along the way where you can see the chalk cliffs as well there is plenty of evidence of the erosion that continually causes landslides and sees yet another part of the klint disappear into the sea. For me it was a surprise to see the changes in the facilities at the Geo Centre where a modern building now stands housing a restaurant, galleries and tourist information, once past the centre it is less than a kilometre to a free campsite with 4 new shelters and accompanying fireplaces, toilet and running water. I continued past the shelter place, passing a military radar system before reaching the lighthouse. It was here that I begun to retrace my steps to a secluded campsite overlooking the Baltic. Having set up my bivy I sat down to relax and take in the view whilst watching the many ferries sailing to or from Bornholm along with those sailing to Køge. The evening concluded with a beautiful sunset over the farmland adjacent to the Møn's forest. The following morning saw yet another wonderful sunrise over the Baltic, from here I traveled north along the coast to the Geo centre before heading inland along the Kridtstien which took me through the forest and past a wonderful area for children to play and finally back to the car.

Møns Klint is not the only white cliffs on Sjælland (see our earlier post) but they are perhaps the most well known and given that they are about 2 hours from Copenhagen they provide an ideal location for an overnight walk in this picturesque area.

Access to the are can be gained by car or by the use of public transport with a Regional Train to Vordingborg and then bus to area of Møn.

Hiking on the Mornington Peninsula

The Mornington Peninsula in Victoria (Australia) is a well known tourist area, with many Melburnians spending their summer holidays camping on the foreshore of Port Phillip Bay. On Mornington Peninsula you can find sheltered golden sandy beaches as well as surf beaches providing challenges for surfboarders and body surfers. Equally fishermen can try their luck with the bay beaches, surf beaches and rock fishing. There is also an extensive wine industry on the peninsula along with many restaurants and cafes. However, there is also many hiking opportunities which we have been able to explore over the past weeks.

Two Bays Track

The two bays track connects Port Phillip Bay with Bushrangers Bay and Cape Schanck, the trail is 26 km in length and commences ( if heading West) with a 280 metre climb from Port Phillip Bay to Seawinds Gardens which are adjacent to Arthurs Seat a 305 metre summit overlooking both Port Phillip and Westernport Bays. Seawind Gardens is an important botanical reserve consisting of many plants that were indigenous to the area and are now being regenerated to establish flora that is typical to the region. After leaving Seawind Gardens the trail heads wast to King Falls, these falls provide a respite from the settled areas around a Aurthurs Seat and the housing estates abutting the mountain. Upon leaving the falls the trail ultimately descends to the settled areas around Waterfall Gully Rd before coming to an an easement for the continuation of Gardens Rd, which links Duells Road with Browns Road. After crossing Browns Rd you soon enter Greens Bush, where you will never be far from the sight of the many Eastern Grey Kangaroos and Black Wallabies. The trail meanders through the Stringybark and Box forests of Greens Bush before arriving at Boneo Road. Upon crossing Boneo Road the trail heads west to Bushrangers Bay with its rugged rock outcrops, before finally turning south west to reach the Cape Schank lighthouse which provides an Easterly light for the ships heading towards Port Phillip Bay and Melbourne.

Greens Bush and its occupants


Peninsula Coastal Walk

The Mornington Peninsula is blessed by two coastal attractions, the calm of Port Phillip Bay and the ocean beaches of Bass Strait. The Peninsula Coastal Path follows the ocean coastline and commences at the Sorrento Ocean Beach, passing through Bridgewater Bay, Gunnamatta, Cape Schanck before concluding at Bushrangers Bay.

This 31.5 km walk along sandy beaches and trails provides outstanding opportunities for viewing Bass Strait as well as Cape Otway (to the west of the entry into Port Phillip Bay). The walk commences by following the lifesaver track (formed after 2 major shipwrecks in the 1890’s) above the rocky limestone cliffs east of Sorrento, before ultimately reaching Sixteenth Beach, from there it is a mostly coastal walk to Cape Schanck, however, high tides may impede progress and trails above the limestone cliffs may be required to complete the walk.

This walk, or parts thereof, can be recommended at any time of the year as watching the the ocean and the waves is a relaxing experience no matter what the weather.

Photos of the area are shown in our web gallery.

Gear Reviews

Ti Tri Caldera

We used the Caldera for cooking both breakfast and dinner at Wilson Prom, for breakfast it was porridge followed by coffee, whilst in the evening it was Cous Cous and coffee. For each meal we heated about a litre of water, which required approximately 35 mls of alcohol using the caldera with an MSR 0.85 litre pot.

However, we also used the Gram Cracker and Esbit Tablets (14 gm) which required 1.5 tablets per meal. When we are able to access the smaller tablets we intend to try these instead.

The total weight of the system (consisting of Ti Caldera, Gram Cracker, alcohol burner and MSR pot) was 180 gm.

Our observation is that it is efficient and user friendly system as well Birgit is impressed by the design, in future we will take a closer a look at the wood burning option, fires are not allowed in Wilsons Promontory NP even in winter


Pacer Poles

I have used the poles for well over 12 months now having previously used Carbon Fibre (CF) poles. Whilst these poles are heavier than CF poles I have always been impressed with their comfort in use in particular the handles which provide a more natural walking position. For walking I find these poles allow me to walk more upright as well providing an easy follow through with the pole.

At first glance it may appear that these poles would be difficult to use as tent poles but this is not the case and we have used them as poles for a Black Diamond Betalight as well as for a variety of tarps.

Final comment whilst there are lighter poles around I prefer to use Pacer Poles.


Montane Terra Pants

I have long been interested in these pants but as it has been difficult to find a pair to try for size I have had to wait until I could visit a "real shop" which happened in Melbourne. Putting these trousers on I was immediately impressed by the comfort level and even more surprised to find that they are sized on the large side so persons considering them may need to go down a size. Things I liked about these trousers were the pockets could be accessed even when hipbelt of pack is closed, the side thigh vents allow for ventilation as well as freedom of movement when climbing, the stretch fabric also aids movement. The fabric of the pants is not designed for winter conditions however, winter at Wilson Prom with temperatures ranging between 5 and 15 degrees C were ideal for these pants. The Montane Terras will now form part of my regular hiking kit for 3 season use.


Silkbody Long Sleeve Crew Neck shirt.

Silkbody clothing is a recent newcomer to the hiking market, these NZ made clothes consist of 72% Silk, 15% cotton and 13% wool. I used this shirt in preference to my normal icebreaker merino wool body layer. I was extremely impressed with the comfort level of the shirt, the non clamminess of the fabric even when damp with perspiration and the lack of odour. The shirt worked perfectly on its own or when combined with the Paramo Valez Smock. This shirt will now form part of the my 3 season hiking kit and I will trial it during winter as part of my 4 season kit.

Fortunately in Melbourne we have found a number of suppliers with a much greater range of silkbody clothing than appears to be currently available in Europe.

Wilsons Promontory

For our European summer holiday we travelled south to Australia to visit family and friends, and yes it is winter in Australia.

We took the opportunity to visit one of our favourite spots Wilson Promontory National Park at the southern tip of the Australian Mainland. The park takes in the southern most point on the mainland and consists of mountains, heath land, swamps and sandy beaches. The Prom as it is affectionately known is a popular tourist destination, especially in summer where up to 200 000 people can be visiting, camping, hiking, sea kayaking, surfing as well as many other sports.

There are many hiking opportunities including a number of circuit walks of varying length and difficulty. We chose to walk the Eastern Circuit walk which takes in Sealers Cove, Refuge Cove and Waterloo Bay. This popular 35 km walk can be completed easily in 2 days, but we decided to take our time and spent a night at each of the 3 campsites on the east coast.

We departed for our first day from the Telegraph Saddle Carpark, heading south along the Lighthouse track, before turning towards Waterloo Bay. The Lighthouse, located on South East Cape is a further 11 km along the track. The undulating foot track to Waterloo Bay is a pleasant walk interspersed with the occasional boardwalks over streams and swampy areas, ultimately the track arrives at Waterloo Bay with its white sandy beach and exquisite turquoise waters. From Waterloo Bay it is a short walk to Little Waterloo Bay, the first of the designated campsites on the east coast.

The following day was another short day to Refuge Cove with the highlight being the climb to Kersops Peak which provides commanding views south to the lighthouse and the conically shaped Rodondo Island as well as to the northern beaches of the prom and further north to Strezlecki Ranges of southern Victoria. Refuge Cove is a cove of 2 coves and is recognised as a safe harbour for boats and yachts in bad weather. We were fortunate to have the entire camping area to ourselves accompanied only by a variety of Australian birds.

The third day saw us walk to Sealers Cove, again a short walk, we were blessed by beautiful sunny weather which provide for excellent views both north and south along the coast. Sealers Cove was once used by whalers and sealers as it provided shelter for their boats as well as ample water for camping. The final day took as through the beautiful rainforests of Sealers Creek, before the climb to the aptly named Windy Saddle, where we were greeted by a Wombat grazing, and finally the Telegraph Saddle car park.

We were fortunate to experience 4 sunny days with crisp cool nights which made for a pleasant trip with outstanding views. We would recommend this walk as ideal for the entire family and if you are able to visit the prom when there are less people around it makes for an even more enjoyable experience.

Our equipment report on the Ti Tri Caldera, Pacer Poles, Montane Terra Pants, Silkbody shirt will follow.

Backpacking Light on the Internet

Backpacking Light on the Internet

Backpackinglight USA site founded by Ryan Jordan, this site with its associated forums, gear shop, gear reviews, publications has in my view become the premier site for information and well researched discussions on the ultra light philosophy. They have often produced new gear that is both lightweight and innovative in design. The forums contain many insightful conversations about the techniques associated with ultra light hiking. It has been fascinating to watch this site grow from one which was very much a USA based site to one that now has forum participants from Europe, Asia Australia and New Zealand.

Backpackinglight UK, this site has developed with a very different focus of podcasts and a shop specialising in light weight gear. Given the different climate and hiking conditions in the UK the site has promoted appropriate gear for lightweight hiking in the UK (and possibly Europe) and as a consequence is seen by many as in the fore front of the lightweight movement in the UK.

Backpackinglight Australia, is located in Melbourne and has been around for a while now and like its namesakes in the other countries is a provider of lightweight gear to bushwalkers, the company has imported such brand names as Integral Designs, GoLite, Montane, Pacer Poles along side of Australian and NZ brands such as Aarn and Gondwana.


It is apparent to us that the advent of these sites and their accompanying stores has led to increase in the use of lightweight techniques in the outdoors which is to be commended and we can recommend each of the online stores on these sites as being reliable providers of high quality ultra light gear.

Golite Pinnacle, first impressions

The Golite Pinnacle is a frameless large volume (75l) pack, which was released a little over 12 months ago. I had been looking for a lightweight frameless pack that would serve both as a day pack as well as for lightweight trips. Whilst you may say that a 75 litre pack is a little large for a day pack, the compaktor system and side straps enable it to be reduced to a much smaller profile. In essence there are 2 hooks and 2 loops of cord at the base of the pack which enable the base of the pack to be narrowed somewhat. Thereby making it both a large volume pack as well as being useful for short peak bagging trips from the base camp.

So far I have only used it for a number of day trips and I have been impressed with the weight (710 gm on my scales) the comfort of the hip belt, the support provided by the included foam back panel, the ease with which you can access the side pockets which hold 1 litre Nalgene bottles with ease as well there is a large back pocket which enables you to access the items required during the day easily. The pack is well made with its dyneema fabric and reinforced stitching where required.

I look forward to using this pack over longer trips in the coming months.

Summer sojourn: we are about to embark on an extended trip during summer and we will report back as we can.

The photo shows an 2.4 m * 1.5 m Integral Designs tarp and bivy.

Information on forests in Denmark

Stef has asked about information on Denmark in English , I have provided some information here which may be of interest to others as well

There are many forests in Denmark where a family could go . The best place to obtain information would be the Tourist Information centres who I have always found very helpful and you will find many brochures in English as well as other languages, especially German.

The Visit Denmark site is perhaps the best general starting point.

With regard to the forests, there are some English pamphlets for various forests and these can be found here We can recommend Jægersborg Deer Park (see our earlier blog) as well as the white chalk cliffs of Møns Klint and closer to Copenhagen Stevns Klint (see our earlier blog). Stevns Klint is accessible from Rødvig Railway station, an approx 2 hour trip from Copenhagen.

Getting around in Denmark on the public transport system is easy and the system is reliable. Using Rejseplanen (available in English here) you can find the times for buses and trains for most cities, towns and hamlets in Denmark.

Finding where places are can be a problem, so we suggest you use the internet mapping system known as krak.dk, whilst not in English if you select the tab labeled Kort and type the name of the township into the Postnr./By space in most case that will give a map of the area. However, Google Earth is also an alternative.

The Danish Weather Service forecasts are available in English, they provide a 5 day outlook for all regions.

We hope that this information is helpful

Children in the forest

On the western side of Copenhagen there are a number of forests, which were established as part of the urban planning of the city which can be easily accessed using the public transport system, especially the trains.

Today I was able to spend some time wandering around Hareskovene, located to the west of Copenhagen and accessible by train from Copenhagen. The forest consists of a number of lakes, wooded areas, trails, fire places, shelters and even a primitive over night camping place. However, more than anything else it was a pleasure to hear the laughter of many happy children enjoying the forest. There is a culture in Denmark of taking school groups (ages 2 and above) to the forest where they are allowed to play and experience the outdoors. Hearing the children playing reminded me of the book titled Last Child in the Woods, written by Richard Louv, which highlights the challenges in the US society of encouraging children to experience the outdoors. Here in Denmark as in other places there is a tradition of taking children into the outdoors and encouraging them to explore, we are also aware of other educational systems in countries such as Scotland and England looking at how they can incorporate these outdoor experiences into the childs schooling. Let us hope that these activities can be continued.

If you are interested in obtaining information about state forests and walking in Denmark (Vandreture i Statsskovene) then we recommend a visit to the web site Vandretursfoldere where you will find information on many state forest walks in Denmark.


Note: for an alternative view of Richard Louv's book you may like to look at this article.

Our favourite place

Whilst visiting the Trossachs I came across a sign with this quote on it which summarised our feelings towards the our outdoor experiences.

All the wild world is beautiful, and it matters but little where we go, to highlands or lowlands, woods or plains, on the sea or land or down among the crystals of waves or high in a balloon in the sky; through all the climates, hot or cold, storms and calms, everywhere and always we are in God's eternal beauty and love. So universally true is this, the spot where we chance to be always seems the best

John Muir 1890


We would be interested to know the origins of this quote.

The Trossachs, Scotland

I have been visiting family in Scotland and have had the opportunity to do some day walks in the area, particularly along the Rob Roy Way, a 126 km trail running from Drymen in the south to Pitlorchy. The trail meanders along old forestry roads and footpaths and provides a variety of scenery. Today I headed north from Aberfoyle, once the end of the railway from Glasgow, this quiet hamlet is the centre of the Forestry service area and has a number of hotels and eating places. I can recommend the Forth Inn as a place to visit for a meal.

Back to the trail, the trail climbs steadily once it leaves the main street in Aberfoyle and eventually follows the around the north side of the local golf course with its magnificent views of Ben Lomond. Throughout this section of the trail you see the evidence of forestry work and the many plantations. The trail climbs gently through the forest before exiting onto the open grazing plains of the Menteith Hills. The Menteith Hills provide a pleasant walk with many views of the surroundings including the Lake of Menteith.

















I can recommend a visit to this area. Whilst in the UK I have also taken the chance to stock up on some gear that is not readily available elsewhere thanks Rose and Bob, I look forward to reporting back on my silk body clothing and Pinnacle pack.

Drivvejen

Had the opportunity to travel to Jylland in the last couple of days and as a result we were able to spend some time on the Drivvejen, which is a part of the North Sea Trail. Drivvejen starts at Thyborøn and finishes on the Danish German border at Sæd Grænse south of Tønder. The trail is approximately 200 km in length and is a collection of drove ways, some of which were originally established around 800 AD. The trail visits many important historical and geographical places along the way including Ribe, the oldest town in Denmark which was an important market place in the beginning of the eighth century. We hiked only a small section of the trail in the vicinity of Tønder and specifically visited Ribe and Råbjerg Plantage.

The weather has been dry and warm so we were able to explore the many different set ups of our Black Diamond Beta Light. Shown here is one of our favorites which we call star gazing.

Bush Buddy

We have owned a BushBuddy Ultra for a while and have always thought that it is ideal for places where there is an abundant supply of firewood, especially along the coast. The stove weighs 150 gms and fits snugly into our Backpackinglight 1100 ml pot but will also slip inside a MSR 0.85 litre pot with about a cm of the stove protruding above the pot.
We used the stove this past weekend on the Österlenleden. The stove lived up to all its claims of burning efficiently with the design allowing continuing refuelling from the fuel sources available, in our case small pine cones which provided a hot fire and almost ash free residue. Given our proximity to ample supplies of driftwood we were able to keep it burning longer than we would have been able to with a gas stove.

One of the benefits of the stove is also its warming glow that it can provide at night, though this also means that it is difficult to use in confined surroundings.

Österlenleden, Sweden

The southern part of Sweden contains a number of walking trails over this past weekend we spent some time walking a part of the Österlenleden which initially follows the coast from Ystad in the south to north of Kivik where it turns inland and continues to Snogelholm where it meets up with the Nord till Sydleden (North South trail). The complete walk is 165 km in length and is divided into stages with accommodation suggestions, including tent and shelter sites, provided through out the walk.

We started at Ystad and headed east with the well formed gravel trail following the coast line towards Nybrostrand, the beautiful sandy beaches and the sunny weather made for a pleasant walk, the camping area at Nybrostarnd has all amenities and is a possible overnight stay location. After Nybrostrand there is an artillery range and if the warning flags are flying then a detour around the roads is required this route returns to the coastline at Hammar. After Hammar you arrive at Ales stener ( large stone Viking monument in the shape of a ship) these stones are of 1 to 3 meters in height, and are dated to about 600 AD. From here it is a short walk down to Kåsberga with its fish smokehouse and small shops. After leaving Kåsberga the trail continues along the coast to Löderups strandbad, firstly skirting the township before passing through Backåkra, the former home of UN Secretary General Dag Hammasköld, on our way to the camping site to the east of the township. This quaint campsite has all amenities and as it is adjacent to the nature reserve it provides idyllic surroundings with plenty of places to listen for birds and generally enjoy this quiet hamlet. The heads inland from the campsite and follows the northern boundary of Hagestads naturreservat and passes through lovely stands of forest with occasional glimpses of farmland, it was here that we cam across our first Swedish snake, certainly no where near as dangerous as those in Australia and elsewhere. However, there is an alternative route and that is to walk along the bench, the fine sand makes for easy walking and can be recommended as long as it is not too windy. Either way you ultimately come to Sandhammaren which is supposedly Swedens best sandy beach, according to the signs. The trail now follows the beach north passing many small hamlets before reaching Skillinge a larger village with shopping along with a fish smokehouse. Continuing along the coast you come to Simrishamn, one of the largest fishing ports in Sweden, it has a railway access to Malmo and Ystad. The trail now heads north towards the imposing Stenshuvuds National Park, Sweden's southernmost national park and a truly beautiful place to visit. From the naturum it is a short climb to Stenshuvuds which provides commanding views of the surrounds and is the site of a fort which dates back to around 600 AD. Soon after leaving Stenshuvuds you arrive in the small fishing hamlet of Kivik with its modern fish smoke house as well as wonderful organic foods shop. Kivik is the site of the apple festival in late August. This was where our trip concluded, however, we will back. Detailed information on hiking trails in the Skane area can be found at www.skaneleden.se

Falster Strand

Yes it has been a while since I last posted and hiked for that matter. Sometimes other events in your life become more important.

However, I did get to spend some time on the coast at Marielyst in Southern Sjælland, it is a beautiful stretch of beach and with a trail running parallel to and overlooking the beach it makes for an ideal walk with the beach on one side and the forest and summer houses the other. There are many summer house areas along Falster Strand as well as kiosks where it is possible to buy many different food items. There are several options for access via public transport using the Nykøbing Railway Station as a starting point.

All in all a nice place to visit.

Backpackinglight Arctic Pack

I have used this pack on one trip last winter in Australia, I used it with the 50 litre dry bag and the 2 aluminium stays for a complete weight of 1100 gms. What attracted me to this pack were two things, one it is made by ULA in Utah, a well respected pack maker and the dry bag would enable it to be carried in wet conditions without the need for a liner. In both aspect I was not disappointed. It did rain on the Prom during my visit and everything inside my pack was dry. Other aspects which I came to appreciate were the excellent hip belt pockets, the comfort of the carry, I had about 12 kg when loaded. The usefulness of the front pocket, the ability to compress the dry sack and let the air out at the bottom, thereby reducing the volume.

There is however, an art to pack this pack, the obvious is to treat it the same as a normal pack and load from the top with the pack sitting vertically, because of its design I found this method not very successful, instead I laid it on it frame and filled it that way with light items at the bottom and heavier items in the middle and so on. This was much more effective.

I personally would like to have some more outside pockets so I am looking at adding side pockets, which I think will also add some sideways stability to the pack when loading it.

This is a specialist pack and I will only use it when I am expecting a wet trip or when I am going to damp environments, such as Lapland.

Stevns Trampesti

I started the trail at Bøgeskov Havn, it was a gloomy grey day but no rain. The start of the trail is well marked and points you west along a sandy trail before taking you on to the beach after about 300 meters. A walk along the pebble-covered beach eventually leads you to a sheer cliff into the sea, it is now that you will get wet feet, if you have not already. For me the tide was in and the seas calm so the depth was no more than 30 cm. There were 2 sections the first being 50 meters the second 150 meters. I was glad to be on dry pebble covered beach again. Soon after at Kulstirenden the trail turned inland.

After first following a farm trail through the cliffs and then farmland the trail follows small roads onto Holtug Mosevj. These quiet country lanes make for pleasant walking and all junctions are well marked, ultimately the trail turns towards the cliffs just prior to Stevns Nature Center. Following the cliff trail soon takes you to the back of the nature centre which was to be my home for the night. According to the booklet, Overnatning i det fri, there is a shelter and a toilet, but no water. There is however, a tap outside and a hand basin inside. As well there is a shelter and some tents sites both of which are protected by some small pines. The shelter would sleep no more than 6 persons. Nearby is a DMI weather radar and in the building below it there is an excellent display the flora, fauna and history of the area. As well there is an excellent lookout tower providing views of the sea, farmlands and the neighbouring chalk pit at Stevns. During my stay the plant operated all night, with a ship arriving to collect a load a chalk. The sound however, was in no way intrusive, and along with the constant hum of the raider provided a interesting contrast to the bird song.

Morning arrived with a much more pleasant outlook, the potential for a good day evident in the sunrise.

Leaving Flagbanken, the trail firstly follows the cliff tops before heading in land as it skirts the chalk pit. After travelling away from the sea and then parallel to it turns back towards the sea and finally rejoins the cliff tops less than a kilometre from where it left. By now the clouds had cleared and the white cliffs dipping into the blue and turquoise sea provided the backdrop for the remainder of the day. The walk is now a cliff top walk that follows the cliff tops whilst meandering around the farms, as the Stevns guide explains this is a trampsti and as such is the trail is constructed by persons walking along it, as well the trampsti exists through the cooperation of the surrounding landowners and therefore users should be aware of their obligations as they walk.

Aside from the outstanding views of the sea and cliffs the next point of interest was Stevns Fyr. The lighthouse stands atop of the cliffs which separate Køge Bugt and Fakse Bugt, I did wonder for how much longer will lighthouses be needed in this day of GPS navigation. The trampsti then wends its way south till it arrives at Højurup gamle Kirke which is slowly being washed into the sea. The kirke is a popular tourist attraction in the summer but for now it was peaceful and provided me with time to relax and reflect on the beautiful surrounds. After passing through the kirke and its surrounds the next point along the trail is the Fortress of Stevns which has an important history with its use spanning many years and NATO only ceased to use it in 2000 the kommune of Stevns now uses most of the surrounds as a museum, more information can be found at the Stevnsfortet web site.

Further down the coast the views continue whilst in the distance Rødvig can be seen. As you approach Rodvig the trails turns inland to take you through the Boesdal Kalkbrud with its imposing Lime Kilns and pyramid storage shed. The final 1 km of the trampsti takes you into Rødvig where you can catch a train to Koge and then the S train to Copenhagen. I can recommend this 22 km walk as either an overnight or a long day walk which is within 2 hours of Copenhagen.

Photos of the trip can be found in the web gallery.

Shelters and Shelters Jægersborg

Well I had a chance to get away and do some walking, as a result I ended up at Jægersborg Hegn and Jægersborg Dyrehave, just 20 minutes by train north of Copenhagen. What started off as a day of exploring the forests on the leap year day turned out to be a discovery of shelters. Yes I had intended to use my Mountain Laurel Designs Poncho as rain gear and start practising to use it as a shelter but what I did not know is that I would see many other shelters along the way.

If you are in København and looking for a walk in the woods then we can recommend Jægersborg Dyrehave, a trip on the C train to Klampenborg will have you there in less than half an hour.

Back to shelters we have posted in our web gallery a set of shelters found in Jægersborg Hegn we hope you enjoy them

Pacer Poles

I started using hiking poles about 5 years ago, and I have transitioned through several sets of different poles before coming to realise that for me the Pacer Poles are the best. These poles are a little heavier than some of the carbon fibre ones available but the handles and the grip are by far the best. The photo demonstrates the poles "leaning on each other" in the sand near Grenaa. This set up coincidentally demonstrates how Aarn in New Zealand has developed a tent for use with the poles. Similarly a member of Backpackinglight in the USA has demonstrated similar setup using the Integral Designs Sil Shelter, but more about this later.

Sunshine and White cliffs

Finally had a chance to do a quick over night trip on Sjællandsleden, part of the North Sea Trail. The trip started with an overnight camp at Boesdal located just east of Rødvig. There are shelters here, but no water and with temperatures well below zero, the white chalk cliffs make for an eerie experience in the moonlight. I awoke to a clear but cold morning which provided great views of the cliffs. A short walk led me to Rødvig. The walk along the beach at high tide was interesting with many of the rocks covered in ice and not much sand left to walk on.

The Sjællandsleden follows the coastline from Rødvig for about 6 kms before heading inland through the fascinating township of Lund. From here it is a 2 km walk along a quiet bitumen road before turning towards the sea near Lille Torøje. The remainder of the trip is along the coast and then through Strandskov before arriving at the busy township of Fakse Ladeplads (harbour). A very pleasant day with temperatures just above zero C and it was great to be able to do some walking in an area which is within 2 hours of Copenhagen.

The image shows the early morning sun shining on the cliffs of Stevns Klint near Boesdal. Photo info: Ricoh GX100. More photos here

My Favourite Pot

My favourite pot has to be my MSR 0.85 litre pot, it weighs 125 gms, a little more than some ultra light pots but it is also a little more robust than the thin Titanium Pots available. But perhaps the most important aspect is that I can use it with my Caldera Stove, my Optimus Crux stove, my Bushbuddy. The added advantage with the Bushbuddy and the gas stove is that they will pack inside the pot thereby making it easier to pack.

The photo shows the MSR sitting inside the Caldera along with the Gram Cracker Esbit holder.